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Avicularia versicolor

Chubbs

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I disagree with that. For a juvenile or adult yes, a week or so is adequate. For a sling, you can try feeding them after 3 to 5 days.
 

Fuzzball79

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I usually wait until the fangs are black (if I can see them), which is, as Chubbs wrote usually around 3-5 days after molt for slings.
 

RyanT

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Ok so I just joined this forum and was so excited to go through all the threads and possibly learn a few things. My girlfriend just called me and said that our sling has been on its back since 930 this morning, it's now 5 in the afternoon, can moulting take this long. I'm really nervous that it didn't make it through it. Please someone have some good news
 

rénee

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Perforate the sides of the enclosure for ventllation, all around, starting 1" above the substrate and stopping 1" below the lid/roof and NO HOLES in the top.

I'm curious as to why no holes on the top either, my enclosure has holes on the side and on the top, and I think I have been doing just fine and my T, if anything I find that the water dish just tends to evaporate faster and I'm filling it more often.

Just wondering cause if there is a reason as to why no holes on the top I would like to fix it then :)


Sorry I know this is an older post already too just popped up on my thread
 

rénee

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im pretty new to the hobby still, and havnt had much experience in everything, nor have I had a bad molt yet.. but from what I have read you can take a little ear dropper or whatever those things are actually called and put a drop of water on it to help moisten it up to help it get out, it could be stuck?

You can make a new post and you will most likely get more answers, because again I am not 100% sure here. Theres way more experienced people who can help, they just may not see it from this post, but like I said posting a new thread will get it more attention:)
 

Nicolas C

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Ok so I just joined this forum and was so excited to go through all the threads and possibly learn a few things. My girlfriend just called me and said that our sling has been on its back since 930 this morning, it's now 5 in the afternoon, can moulting take this long. I'm really nervous that it didn't make it through it. Please someone have some good news

It could be too long a time if yours is a tiny sling (according to your introduction). Which one of your T is it? If it's the Avicularia, are you sure it's on the back for molting, and not only staying in this position for other reasons (relaxing, chilling, staring at you beautiful ceiling...)? My Avicularia metallica slings are spending a lot of time on their web on their back... Anyway, if it's really molting, I guess there's not a lot you can do, unless wait until tomorrow and hope for the best. If the molt has begun and the T appears to be stuck, you can maybe pour some drops of water on the substrate to help as Renée stated, but if nothing has begun, I'm not sure it would help. The problem is: if you disturb the T during the whole molting process, it will likely freeze until danger is gone (or worse: try to get beck on its feet) and it will increase the risk of being stuck because of the delay. Personally, I wouldn't do anything but wait (or maybe do what Renée said but nothing more).
 

octanejunkie

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I'm curious as to why no holes on the top either, my enclosure has holes on the side and on the top, and I think I have been doing just fine and my T, if anything I find that the water dish just tends to evaporate faster and I'm filling it more often.

Just wondering cause if there is a reason as to why no holes on the top I would like to fix it then :)


Sorry I know this is an older post already too just popped up on my thread
Arboreals need consistent humidity in captivity. Holes in the lid expedite evaporation in the enclosure. Keeping the top 1" and lid free from venting creates a humidity cap, of sorts.
If you have long term success doing otherwise, kudos to you, and please document and post your results for others.
Happy T keeping
 
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kormath

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My avic is setup like Renee's. Holes in the sides going up for plenty of ventilation and holes in the top. Top holes are covered with a paper/cloth filter thing to prevent escapes, like what comes in the top of the roach containers.

So far she's been doing well in this setup.
 

Ratmosphere

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I came up with a way to house this tarantula without disturbing its webbing. I am very happy. It's amazing to watch this tarantula grow.

FullSizeRender-2.jpg
 

Chubbs

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Picked this guy up for a good price. It was labeled simply Pink Toe however he/she has quite a bit if green in him. Could this be a Versicolor?View attachment 14214

Versicolor doesn't have pink foot pads or the typical dark blue/blackish body coloration, so no.

This is what an adult A.versicolor looks like:
avicularia-versicolor.jpg
(Not my photo)

Honestly, the entire Avicularia genus is so messed up when it comes to its taxonomy, that there is almost zero chance anyone will be able to tell you exactly what species of Avic you have. Many species looks so similar (especially to the untrained eye). Avicularia versicolor is one of the few that is extremely easy to distinguish from others in the genus due to its markings and colors both as slings and as adults. What you have there looks like it could be an immature A.metallica or A.urticans, but even that's just taking a wild guess. Many Avics have similar abdominal markings as slings and juveniles, even if they are different species. The abdomen coloration/pattern on a young A.metallica looks quite similar to that of A.urticans and A. amazonica.
 
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Chubbs

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So the only thing that I can say for certain is
i have a Avicularia. Thanks Chubbs, you always have good info.

No problem man. If it loses the red color on its abdomen overtime as it grows larger, then it is probably A.metallica (if it's already a full-grown adult then it obviously won't lose it.) A.metallica is probably the 2nd most common Avic found on the market and in pet shops, so that's partially why I suspect it to be one.
 

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