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How to remove uneaten insects properly

Nenneh

New Member
Messages
1
Location
Sweden
Hello!

I got a brachypelma smithi about 2 months ago. I just wanted to ask a couple of questions that I've stumbled upon since getting it.
This is my first spider. I keep geckos and snakes but haven't kept spiders yet. Been interested in it for a long time though, so happy to finally get into it

1. Since I got it, it hasn't eaten at all, hasn't even seemed interested. I tried once per week at first but then I've just tried one or two times in the last month.
It has not been acting stressed or aggressive. However today it molted (the panic attack i got when i saw the underside of my spider btw, was so glad when I realised it was just the molt :O).
I read that they can be in pre-molt for a long time, so that could explain it not eating. Could this be right?
The temperatures etc checks out with what I've read from multiple people (using a heat lamp).

2. To actually adress the title. How do you remove crickets or roaches if the spider doesn't eat. In my experience with the other animials I keep it just stresses them out if you don't remove it, and from what I've read that's the case with spiders aswell.
But when a cricket for example escapes into the spiders burrow it seems very hard to get it out without disturbing the spider. Maybe it's simply better to feed with tongs?
The feeding videos on youtube I've watched never seem to encounter the problem with uneaten prey, so I didn't really think of it... :/
 

Ted 1968

Member
Messages
23
Location
Pa
I don't believe in Tong feeding. Many New T Keepers over supply their Ts with food . If your spider refuses, Wait a week, even two.
Then only place One in to see . I wouldn't dig out the Burrow to get a Cricket.
If Your using Crickets ( I do) limit the places for them to hide. Use your tongs ( Nice long ones) To Clean up and even catch live Crickets. It takes a while to catch a Cricket with tongs but you'll be a Master in no time. ( I will Leave them in Overnight and check the next Day)

Iso-Pods and Springtails work in More humid tanks , But a B.smithi shouldn't be that Humid.
One Tip for a New Comer ... Keep the water dish full , especially after a Molt.
Hope this was Helpful
 

Konstantin

Well-Known Member
3 Year Member
Messages
969
Location
Preston,UK
Hi
the thing with tong feeding is that sometimes the spider may take too aggressively miss and hit the tongs and break a tooth or both and then possibly starve to death .
When seeking advice is better to refer to spiders size in DLS(Diagonal leg span) rather than age as it does matter how large your pet is.
Slings eat more often ,moult more often abd in general require more attention.
Juveniles, sub adult and adult less so.
I have adult tarantulas that I feed once a month for example and they still refuse food sometimes.
If you are struggling to deal with uneaten live feeders you can injure them so they still twitch to provoke feeding reactions but will be slow and easy to remove.Also place pray away from burrows oe hides and never force pray in those.
If spider is hungry it will come out to eat.
After moult you need to wait before offering food till fangs are black to avoid any possible damage if they not hardened properly. It takes from few days to up to 4 weeks depending on sizevof spider.
Regards Konstantin
 

m0lsx

Moderator
Staff member
1,000+ Post Club
3 Year Member
Tarantula Club Member
Messages
2,026
Location
Norwich, UK
Removing roaches is easy. Crush their heads before putting them in. This stops them from burrowing & also leaves them moving for well over 24 hours & normally well over 48 hours. I feed roaches on their backs, as they move their legs rapidly in this position & thus encourage a feeding response.

With crickets I use either my hand or tweezers to remove them, depending upon the T, tank type, how accessible the cricket is & where the T is, in relation to the cricket. You are much more likely to be haired by a stroppy Brachypelma than bitten by an old world. But only you know your T well enough to know what is needed.

Even if a T molts shortly after feeding. I never disrupt the tank too much to remove a cricket. I just spend a little more time & gently go after it as many times as it takes, to get it out.

With a Brachypelma smithi any dead cricket will simply dry out unless it is close to the water bowl. So should not be a problem. In fact, dry crispy crickets are being sold as eco friendly human snacks, so keep some salt handy. :beer:
 

Blackdog

Active Member
Messages
217
Location
Richmond
Removing roaches is easy. Crush their heads before putting them in. This stops them from burrowing & also leaves them moving for well over 24 hours & normally well over 48 hours. I feed roaches on their backs, as they move their legs rapidly in this position & thus encourage a feeding response.

With crickets I use either my hand or tweezers to remove them, depending upon the T, tank type, how accessible the cricket is & where the T is, in relation to the cricket. You are much more likely to be haired by a stroppy Brachypelma than bitten by an old world. But only you know your T well enough to know what is needed.

Even if a T molts shortly after feeding. I never disrupt the tank too much to remove a cricket. I just spend a little more time & gently go after it as many times as it takes, to get it out.

With a Brachypelma smithi any dead cricket will simply dry out unless it is close to the water bowl. So should not be a problem. In fact, dry crispy crickets are being sold as eco friendly human snacks, so keep some salt handy. :beer:
I got yelled at on Hatebook for suggesting just that. I do since I buy roaches for $1 a piece at most and my T's go $50-$150 so why wouldn't I want to protect my investment
 

Jeef

Active Member
3 Year Member
Messages
187
Location
NY
Everyone else pretty much has it covered! Just to reinforce/reiterate-

I have a "do your best" policy on removing uneaten prey. I don't tong feed my tarantulas, but I do use tongs to get things out of their enclosures.

Crickets are a pain. If crickets go into a hide after 24 hours, I don't go digging. Catching them with tongs is a skill that takes some practice.

I crush the heads on 100% of the dubia roaches I use. If I don't, they play dead, then burrow.

My Brachys all go on hunger strike. It really isn't a big deal. I've got a couple of Aphonopelmas that I am convinced live on air. The really funny part is one was a little chow hound until she molted.

I got yelled at on Hatebook for suggesting just that. I do since I buy roaches for $1 a piece at most and my T's go $50-$150 so why wouldn't I want to protect my investment
This baffles me. Did they say why not?
 

Blackdog

Active Member
Messages
217
Location
Richmond
Everyone else pretty much has it covered! Just to reinforce/reiterate-

I have a "do your best" policy on removing uneaten prey. I don't tong feed my tarantulas, but I do use tongs to get things out of their enclosures.

Crickets are a pain. If crickets go into a hide after 24 hours, I don't go digging. Catching them with tongs is a skill that takes some practice.

I crush the heads on 100% of the dubia roaches I use. If I don't, they play dead, then burrow.

My Brachys all go on hunger strike. It really isn't a big deal. I've got a couple of Aphonopelmas that I am convinced live on air. The really funny part is one was a little chow hound until she molted.


This baffles me. Did they say why not?
I think it had to do with movement and prey response which killing a flipping on the back gives you almost a full day. Not to mention ability to remove if uneaten
 

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