How to get your tarantula used to being handled

[Daviddjohnn]

This is my first tarantula, and i'm not necessarily scared of it. I just want to avoid being bitten if I can. What is the best way to go about handling it for the first time? It is a rosehair btw if that matters.

 

[foritxxar]

It'll never actually get used to you handling it. Some are just naturally docile and others aren't. The easiest and safest way is to lay your hand flat and use a paintbrush to gently nudge your T onto your hand. When it settles down, slowly move your hand and viola, you're handling. Be careful to not drop it from any height, as a fall from even 1 ft' could cause injury. Don't breathe on it, as it would startle the little one and could cause it to run, flick hairs, or bite

 

[foritxxar]

Just be safe and careful, respectful and confident Rosehairs are naturally docile so it'll go fine. If it is feeling cranky and throws hairs or a threat pose, back off and try again later.

 

[Daviddjohnn]

awesome! thanks a lot. i appreciate the advice.

 

[HungryGhost]

You don't.

 

[DVirginiana]

I think it's more about getting you used to handling the tarantula than the other way around. I haven't had mine long, but I treat it as an animal I need to know how to handle just in case but mostly don't handle. I don't think they ever get used to it really.

 

[hellknite]

T's don't really want to be handled regardless if it is a docile or aggressive type of species. It just stresses them. So as much as possible I avoid handling my T's.

 

[PetTarantulaWorld.com]

I try to avoid handling them as much as possible...seems to stress them out a lot. More concerning to me than getting bitten is avoiding getting urticating hairs in my eyes during handling. From first hand experience I can tell you that tarantula hairs can be extremely painful if they get in your eyes. Not only that but they can also be very difficult to get out of your eyes once they are in there, and I have read case reports of tarantula keepers suffering pretty serious eye injuries from urticating hairs...unlike bites, which rarely cause a problem unless one is allergic. As a result, I always wear eye protection if I have to handle my tarantulas, as rare as that may be. When I do, its always using the flat hand, nudge with a paintbrush technique being sure to keep my hands low to the ground to avoid a fatal fall. Hope this helps you!

 

[Tomoran]

I pretty much treat mine like I would a goldfish.

When I first got into the hobby, I was looking forward to handling them. However, as I learned more and read others' experiences, I quickly realized there really wasn't a point. I know my first reaction when I get hurt is to jerk back, so if I were to get bit, I'd likely injure the animal by throwing it through the air. Hairs are also NOT fun, so I wouldn't want a handful of those either. The benefit for me would be that I could brag that I held a tarantula. The benefit for the tarantula would be...well...nothing. Besides possibly causing stress to the spider (they are not affection seeking animals like dogs or cats), I'd be risking it injuring itself from a fall or making a possible escape.

Full disclosure, I HAVE held my Euathlus sp. red a handful of times, but not for fun. That little booger tends to climb right out of her enclosure every time I open it, and I usually use my hand to just gently put her back in. I have not taken her out for the purpose of handling, though.

I know some folks handle, and I understand the draw of it. I also realize that for some, it makes them feel closer to their pet. It's just not for me. I show my affection and love for them by not putting them in unnecessarily dangerous situations.

 

[spidey noob]

got to agree with those that try not to handle there Ts, they dont need or want handled.

 

[Rick Stallard]

I handle every one of my NW Ts and have held a couple of my OW when moving to a new home. Seems to be easier and less stressful to move them that way, then to push and shove it into a strange new place. You don't hold and play with them, but being slow and careful, it works.

 

[Payden King]

I have mixed opinions on handling. I do handle my Ts. I think if they were born in captivity and have been raised knowing nothing else.. Then they don't know any different anyway. Also, even the ones I do think need to be left alone (such as OW Ts) I do think it would be beneficial to both you and the T to handle at least once so that if anything were to happen during a rehouse or cage maintence (such as getting loose), you could be calm and prepared to take the necessary steps to get your T back in it's cage without harming the T or yourself. I think it most definitely helps in a situation like this. I have held all of my Ts (G. Rosea, B. Smithi, Avic Avic, Avic Versi, A. Geniculata, T. Stirmi) except my C. Darlingi because I haven't ha her too long and am waiting until she is comfortable with her new enclosure before disturbing. Although I do plan on handling at one point or another.

Needless to say, I do believe handling (if even only once) will help you and your T in the long run in case anything were to happen that was unprepared and you may be in a situation where you would need to handle them.

I also agree it stresses them less when moving them than it does to poke and pry for them to go to a deli cup which is something else new and uncomfortable.

Just my opinion!! I respect everyone else's opinion too.. Just thought I'd share my view!!

 

[Rick Stallard]

I have mixed opinions on handling. I do handle my Ts. I think if they were born in captivity and have been raised knowing nothing else.. Then they don't know any different anyway. Also, even the ones I do think need to be left alone (such as OW Ts) I do think it would be beneficial to both you and the T to handle at least once so that if anything were to happen during a rehouse or cage maintence (such as getting loose), you could be calm and prepared to take the necessary steps to get your T back in it's cage without harming the T or yourself. I think it most definitely helps in a situation like this. I have held all of my Ts (G. Rosea, B. Smithi, Avic Avic, Avic Versi, A. Geniculata, T. Stirmi) except my C. Darlingi because I haven't ha her too long and am waiting until she is comfortable with her new enclosure before disturbing. Although I do plan on handling at one point or another.

Needless to say, I do believe handling (if even only once) will help you and your T in the long run in case anything were to happen that was unprepared and you may be in a situation where you would need to handle them.

I also agree it stresses them less when moving them than it does to poke and pry for them to go to a deli cup which is something else new and uncomfortable.

Just my opinion!! I respect everyone else's opinion too.. Just thought I'd share my view!!

I agree. With the NW - CB they don't have the kill or be killed mentality. This is just my feeling, that if you offer your hand and they climb on, you have created a trust, atleast the T will know that that big thing coming at it is not going to kill me. Rehousing is super stressful to any T and most people rush it, blocking all exits and make it go where it's not sure it wants to go. I have the new place all ready, I gently wait for the T to climb on my hand and very slow I go to the new home and let it crawl off. Nothing stressful at all. If it doesn't act like it wants to climb onto my hand I wait 30 min and try again. If still no response, then I do it with help from a cup and brush. Might not be for or work for everyone, but it does work for me.

 

[Tomoran]

I have mixed opinions on handling. I do handle my Ts. I think if they were born in captivity and have been raised knowing nothing else.. Then they don't know any different anyway. Also, even the ones I do think need to be left alone (such as OW Ts) I do think it would be beneficial to both you and the T to handle at least once so that if anything were to happen during a rehouse or cage maintence (such as getting loose), you could be calm and prepared to take the necessary steps to get your T back in it's cage without harming the T or yourself. I think it most definitely helps in a situation like this. I have held all of my Ts (G. Rosea, B. Smithi, Avic Avic, Avic Versi, A. Geniculata, T. Stirmi) except my C. Darlingi because I haven't ha her too long and am waiting until she is comfortable with her new enclosure before disturbing. Although I do plan on handling at one point or another.

Just my opinion!! I respect everyone else's opinion too.. Just thought I'd share my view!!

I agree. With the NW - CB they don't have the kill or be killed mentality. This is just my feeling, that if you offer your hand and they climb on, you have created a trust, atleast the T will know that that big thing coming at it is not going to kill me. Rehousing is super stressful to any T and most people rush it, blocking all exits and make it go where it's not sure it wants to go. I have the new place all ready, I gently wait for the T to climb on my hand and very slow I go to the new home and let it crawl off. Nothing stressful at all. If it doesn't act like it wants to climb onto my hand I wait 30 min and try again. If still no response, then I do it with help from a cup and brush. Might not be for or work for everyone, but it does work for me.

First off, this is obviously a topic that is oft debated, and I fully respect your statements and experiences. However, as I know that some new keepers may come on here and read this thread, I will offer my perspective on the above.

I truly think that it comes down to both necessity and predictability. First, necessity. I've have done dozens of transfers, and I've never had a situation where I felt that I needed to handle the animal. I, too, am calm and deliberate when transferring, and my goal is always to move the animal with minimal stress and as little risk to me and the T as possible. So, I agree completely that the key is NOT to rush it and to back off and try again later if the animal starts to show signs of stress or agitation. However, I disagree that you need to put your hand in harm's way. One bite is all it can take to end up with you and/or your tarantula injured. You have to ask yourself, if one of those Old Worlds decides that it is not in the mood, are you really going to be able to keep from flinching and flicking it into the air? Is it worth the risk? All it would take is one time.

Payden King, I'm not sure I understand how holding a tarantula once could help you to to be prepared for an escape. If you hold the animal, all that means is that on that particular day, in that particular moment, the T was calm enough to tolerate being handled. That certainly doesn't mean that the same animal, when agitated and stressed enough to bolt, will be handleable again. It will likely be terrified and very willing to protect itself. In fact, this idea might lead an inexperienced keeper to underestimate an animal that was "friendly" when last he/she held it and get bit. Perhaps I'm misunderstanding the concept?

As for the "kill or be killed" attitude, I honestly don't think my Ts are trying to kill me when they get aggressive (well, perhaps my OBT is. ). Instinct tells them that if something big is reaching for them, it's likely a predator or danger. They will then bite or hair flick to inflict pain and, hopefully, to escape. That's the natural defense response they've developed over millions of years. It doesn't take much, whether it be a breeze or an imperceptible vibration, to kick a calm animal back into instinctual survival mode. I also have plenty of captive born tarantulas, and I have plenty that I still wouldn't put my hand in front of. I'm not sure that by being captive born it makes them more "domesticated"... I would agree that some wild caught specimens can be more defensive after being plucked from the wild and enduring the poor conditions they are often subjected to through importations, but I don't think that CB Ts are necessarily born more docile. The period that they've been kept my humans is a dust speck on a long timeline of their evolutionary history.

Can Ts become conditioned to "tolerate" handling? I believe that probably can. Do they "like" the handling? I doubt it. Are they still stressed? Some might tolerate it more than others, but it only takes breathing on them to set them off, so I would say any perceived "calmness" can be lost in a second. And here's where we get to predictability. They are not domesticated animals; they are essentially wild animals (and not ones recognized for higher-order thinking). This makes them VERY unpredictable. The boards are rife with stories of once docile Ts molting into nasty little monsters (and sometimes molting back to docile again). Their temperaments are NOT always predictable, and many will change as they age. That means that the cuddly little G. pulchripes that you handled at 3" could be a nippy, hair-flicking demon at 4".

Again, I only offer this response as I worry about a novice keeper coming on, reading these statements, and putting his/herself in harms way because he/she thinks that you have to have physical contact with the animal when transferring. I also worry about the wrong person picking up on the talk about handling Old World Ts and thinking this is normal or a safe practice. No way. It sounds like this method works for both of you, and I suspect that you both have the experience to make this decision. However, for one just getting into the hobby, I would really argue against trying to handle any or all of your animals until you get to see them at their best...and their worst.

Again, much respect!

 

[Rick Stallard]

First off, this is obviously a topic that is oft debated, and I fully respect your statement and experience. However, as I know that some new keepers may come on here and read this thread, I will offer my perspective on the above.

I truly think that it comes down to both necessity and predictability. First, necessity. I've have done dozens of transfers, and I've never had a situation where I felt that I needed to handle the animal. I, too, am calm and deliberate when transferring, and my goal is always to move the animal with minimal stress and as little risk to me and the T as possible. So, I agree completely that the key is NOT to rush it and to back off and try again later if the animal starts to show signs of stress or agitation. However, I disagree that you need to put your hand in harm's way. One bite is all it can take to end up with you and/or your tarantula injured. You have to ask yourself, if one of those Old Worlds decides that it is not in the mood, are you really going to be able to keep from flinching and flicking it into the air? Is it worth the risk? All it would take is one time.

Payden King, I'm not sure I understand how holding a tarantula once could help you to to be prepared for an escape. If you hold the animal, all that means is that on that particular day, in that particular moment, the T was calm enough to tolerate being handled. That certainly doesn't mean that the same animal, when agitated and stressed enough to bolt, will be handleable again. It will likely be terrified and very willing to protect itself. In fact, this might idea might lead an inexperienced keeper to underestimate an animal that was "friendly" when last he/she held it and get bit. Perhaps I'm misunderstanding the concept?

As for the "kill or be killed" attitude, I honestly don't think my Ts are trying to kill me when they get aggressive (well, perhaps my OBT is. ). Instinct tells them that if something big is reaching for them, it's likely a predator or danger. They will then bite or hair flick to inflict pain and, hopefully, to escape. That's the natural defense response they've developed over millions of years. It doesn't take much, whether it be a breeze or an imperceptible vibration, to kick a calm animal back into instinctual survival mode. I also have plenty of captive born tarantulas, and I have plenty that I still wouldn't put my hand in front of. I'm not sure that by being captive born it makes them more "domesticated"... I would agree that some wild caught specimens can be more defensive after being plucked from the wild and enduring the poor conditions they are often subjected to through importations, but I don't think that CB Ts are necessarily born more docile. The period that they've been kept my humans is a dust speck on a long timeline of their evolutionary history.

Can Ts become conditioned to "tolerate" handling? I believe that probably can. Do they "like" the handling? I doubt it. Are they still stressed? Some might tolerate it more than others, but it only takes breathing on them to set them off, so I would say any perceived "calmness" can be lost in a second. And here's where we get to predictability. They are not domesticated animals; they are essentially wild animals (and not ones recognized for higher-order thinking). This makes them VERY unpredictable. The boards are rife with stories of once docile Ts molting into nasty little monsters (and sometimes molting back to docile again). Their temperaments are NOT always predictable, and many will change as they age. That means that the cuddly little G. pulchripes that you handled at 3" could be a nippy, hair-flicking demon at 4".

Again, I only offer this response as I worry about a novice keeper coming on, reading these statements, and putting his/herself in harms way because he/she thinks that you have to have physical contact with the animal when transferring. I also worry about the wrong person picking up on the talk about handling Old World Ts and thinking this is normal or a safe practice. No way. It sounds like this method works for both of you, and I suspect that you both have the experience to know what works for you. However, for one just getting into the hobby, I would really argue against trying to handle any or all of your animals until you get to see them at their best...and their worst.

Again, much respect!

Good point about a newbe. This works for me and I think for Payden King. We never said to try it, only that it works for us, so far. I think read too much into what we said. "As for the "kill or be killed" attitude, I honestly don't think my Ts are trying to kill me when they get aggressive (well, perhaps my OBT is. ). Instinct tells them that if something big is reaching for them, it's likely a predator or danger. They will then bite or hair flick to inflict pain and, hopefully, to escape." Really? You just said it, they think the something is going to try and kill them so they react. They react with a bite intended to kill, not hurt so they can run away. Snakes are able to give a dry bite, but I don't think tarantulas can. It sounds like you have a routine for re-housing that works with out stressing out the T. Thats great, and if it can be done without pushing and making all kinds of noise and fast movements, that might be the best way. I've read and watched so many re-housing that went bad, not because of the T, but because of the person doing it. I'm sure I'm not the only one that does it, in some fashion, like I do. It just comes down to whatever your comfortable with doing and what the T is comfortable in doing.

 

[Martin Oosthuysen]

Hello Everyone
I feel I have to step in here and also give my view on how I perceive this topic, since many will take this topic and apply as they see fit. Only thing that bothers me is,it has been discussed countless times all over the net on many social media platforms.

Let's start of with point 1
- Should I handle a T ?
I myself have handled some of my specimens from small to large,and from docile to defensive. As I grew in the hobby I realized that I am possibly acting irresponsible,simply due to the risk factor. What risk factor ? Let's see,the Tarantula could fall could bite causing me to react and drop or hurt it. There are countless scenarios which you CAN'T plan for,unless you can see the future. You could prepare or plan, but you will never EVER have a full proof 100% plan to ensure safety of the tarantula I don't even worry about the handler since he chose to do it not the T. I am closing this point ad follows,if you can see the future by all means take the risk.

Now point 2
- Teaching a T ?
I doubt it very much a T can be taught,since tarantulas are driven by instinct and lack cognitive thought. Also they do not reason,or have emotional episodes. As for learning,that means a specimen will be able to be taught a certain pattern to apply in a certain situation every single time meaning repetitive. This means it will recognise a certain thing or action,and due to memory repeat the desired outcome taught to it. I don't want to sound like I am making this as a joke,since it's not. If people think they can teach a T,they will take unnecessary risks with any T thinking they can change its patterns actually nature. They are preprogrammed in their genetics,and react accordingly unless someone would like to step forward where a tarantula has shown memory and I say memory not instinct in completing a said action.

Now point 3
- Tarantulas attack to kill ?
I'd say, depending in the situation of the attacker. If it defends through an aggressive move and the attacker moves away from the tarantulas close proximity it will not easily chase after it this is seen over and over in matings where males run away. Oh,and don't say but I have seen many males die of course that will happen since the close proximity of the mating is an artificial area and in the wild it's an open area and more chance for escape. In my opinion,first and for most the T wants to survive and not risk itself in a battle till death.

Now point 4
- Wet or dry bite or both ?
From what I have read a tarantula may exhibit both,this has been documented in many bite reports where no symptoms were visible nor clear fluid exiting the bite wound. Also,they have speculated that tarantulas only have a small amount of venom they use conservatively. People have even said in bite reports only one of the two puncture wounds exhibited fluid coming out, this is very debatable I guess but from the bites I have had I will go with the aforementioned. Remember that is like a natural epidermic needle,flow is controlled by the T and will use it as it would see fit in the situation it finds itself.

I will now finish this off with the following,I don't judge nor do I agree with handling but how it is perceived and passed over to others. I can mention countless negative sides of it,but fail to see one positive except what the keeper gains from it not the T. If a T had a choice,it would be living out its natural life freely and not encaged in our homes. This has been my perspective on this topic,just a view as others have theirs. So in the end,let's have fun grow and enjoy this as a family and pass it on to our kids.

 

[DVirginiana]

Just thought I'd put this up on T's and learning. They can definitely 'learn' by the most basic definition of recognizing a stimulus and exhibiting a learned response (even planaria can do this). My T and wolf spider have already gone from terrified of the feeding tongs to the point that I can't let them see the tongs, or they will grab them and try to eat them in just a couple of weeks.
I imagine they can be conditioned into not freaking out about handling most of the time, kind of like frogs can. But all it takes is a sneeze, or the lighting to be different, ect. and everything they 'learned' goes out the window. I tend to flinch if I don't see a bite coming, so I only handle my rosehair minimally just because I don't want to have the first time I touch her be during some sort of emergency with me being jittery because I've never handled a T before.

 

[Rick Stallard]

Its an opinion, and just like something else, everyone has one. People will tend to do what they want,right or wrong, thats just the way it is.

 

[Payden King]

Well because we are human and curiosity, more often than not, influences our decisions, I will continue to hold my T's even after the day I am bitten because I'm not an uneducated person and I do not hold my T's without the expectation of being bitten. It's a risk I am aware of and a risk I am willing to take. It's called a temperament stick and yes I use one. Right or wrong, it's been my experience that it works for me AND my T's. So I'll agree to disagree here.

 

[Martin Oosthuysen]

Its an opinion, and just like something else, everyone has one. People will tend to do what they want,right or wrong, thats just the way it is.

Exactly,they will do what they want at least I gave an honest opinion. So if anything should go wrong,I have been open even if it might be a disliked view. That's why I said,not judging nor agreeing just my view so in the end keepers choice.