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Need help with please with enclosure

DanGreaves

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Milton keynes
Morning all

Rite I got my first T last week and finally got a humidity gauge in yesterday and it’s reading very high 88% goes in to 90+ I haven’t watered the substrate yet so any dampness is from the shop I got him from, is there a quick way to dry the enclosure slightly to bring the humidity down or do I just need to wait until it has drys out naturally? In the meantime is the T going to be ok?
 

Dave Jay

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Hi, your tarantula will be fine, high humidity in the short term is not a problem but....
Firstly you need to know that a lot of gauges aren't reliable, they're generally not useless, they will show variations in humidity, but you can't take it for granted that when it says 88% that that's what the humidity really is. If I am buying a thermometer or hygrometer I look at all of the stock and buy one that reads the same as the majority of them do, you'll find some show vastly different readings from the rest even though they are in the same environment. Some will say hygrometers aren't useful at all, but I use them in the general area of the enclosures just to get an idea of the fluctuations in my home so I know how fast things might be drying out, I don't use them inside enclosures.
Also know that the meter is showing relative humidity, it varies according to the temperature, relative humidity rises as the temperature drops, a high reading at 15c might be a low reading at 30c even though the moisture in the air remains the same.
In an enclosure ventilation effects the relative humidity far more than the substrates moisture level, so adding more ventilation if possible is the best way to lower humidity if that is desired. You haven't named a species so no one can say if 88% is too high for your particular tarantula, but I suspect a high reading might be through lack of ventilation rather than the substrate being too moist. A temporary higher than usual humidity is no problem for most species as long as it doesn't stay too high long term. With adequate ventilation a spider can access high humidity in its burrow or hide and a variety of different humidity levels in other parts of the enclosure. Ventilation is far more important than trying to nail a certain humidity number, it allows the spider to choose.
 

PanzoN88

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1. Welcome to the hobby

2. Humidity gauges are very inaccurate and are best suited for reptile keeping or for baseball practice. Humidity is a term that is a carry over from the reptile hobby, and tarantulas don't need "humidity"

3. Moisture in the substrate is more important than humidity in the air. Chasing humidity numbers is more of a risk than anything, those who owned Avics years ago are good examples.

4. Might I ask what species you are currently raising???
 

DanGreaves

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Location
Milton keynes
Hi guys,

All great info, thank you

I have a Brachypelma Hamorii

I think the first thing I will do is try and find a new home for him, il attach a photo it has a large amount of holes but only at one end so no circulation. I’m not to sure the shop had much of a clue as they had gel balls instead of fresh water in there too.

@PanzoN88 your right about the reptile thing I have a tortoise and I’m always chasing humidity.
 

DanGreaves

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Milton keynes
image.jpg
 

PanzoN88

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Hi guys,

All great info, thank you

I have a Brachypelma Hamorii

I think the first thing I will do is try and find a new home for him, il attach a photo it has a large amount of holes but only at one end so no circulation. I’m not to sure the shop had much of a clue as they had gel balls instead of fresh water in there too.

@PanzoN88 your right about the reptile thing I have a tortoise and I’m always chasing humidity.
Yeah most pet stores are notorious for giving awful advice. Kritter keepers, acrylic enclosures and the always reliable plastic sterilite bin are the way to go. The enclosure you are housing your B. hamorii in now looks oversized and extremely wet and not much substrate. The mesh is another red flag. That tarantula could probably still live in one of those oversized 32 oz deli cups.

B. hamorii like things dry, with a water dish no gel required as they will not drown (they float). Substrate surface should be 1.5x the distance from the lid of the enclosure. If that is cork bark in there, bury it halfway and that will create a suitable hide.

I'm guessing the pet store sold you some heating contraptions? If so, they too are unnecessary as they are more of a danger to the tarantula. Home heating, room temperature or a space heater with a self timer are all that is needed.

Tarantulas are the most low maintenance pets that you can get. Caresheets kill tarantulas (I'm actually about to create a care guide thread with accurate details of species I've raised)
 

DanGreaves

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Location
Milton keynes
@PanzoN88
I’m on it now eBay for the win I will find something smaller and more compatible.
What do you about a 20x10x10
Current is 30x20x20

Once I have something a better size i will arrange and add some new substrate.

No that was one thing they didn’t try to do, it’s pretty warm where he is anyways temp sits around 25c

I will look forward to reading your guide mate so much conflicting info out there
 

WolfSpider

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I agree. Clownie’s enclosure is ideal. If it is a small sling, then more dry substrate. As per @Dave Jay, don’t chase humidity. An overflowed water dish on occasion (2x per month for example) is all that is needed.
 

Dave Jay

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Yeah, it does look damp, but I don't think a near saturation humidity number can be accurate unless there's absolutely no air movement in your home, as stated, those gauges are not to be relied on for actual numbers, just for giving you a general idea of fluctuations. Out of interest, you say you have another for the tortoise, put them side by side and see what the readings are.
Looking at your enclosure it wouldn't be a total loss when the size of the tarantula calls for that sized enclosure. It looks like a modified fish tank, is there a way to add ventilation to the lid? A strip of ventilation in the lid opposite the ventilation on the side would give some air flow, I would think it would work quite well.
Look at the mesh that's on there, it has pull marks all over it, either from escape attempts or from catching on claws, probably not your T but you can see the problem with it. It looks like an easy fix though, slice through the silicone and replace it with a strip of perforated acrylic or similar. For what you need you might be able to get hold of a couple of offcuts, one for the side and one for the lid. Holes can be drilled or made with a soldering iron. Acrylic is known for bowing so it needs to be held firmly on all sides.
 

RonC

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Dallas Texas
If the enclosure is not glass adding more ventilation isn't too hard with a drill or soldering iron. Of course put the T in a temporary enclosure while doing it. You could add some dry substrate on top of the moist instead of completely rehousing to dry it out unless it's soaked. Keep water available in a small dish all the time.
 

Whitelightning777

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They are a dry spider. Since B hamorii is usually pretty docile, try just removing it and replace the substrate with dry substrate.

Cocofiber works well for dry spiders.

Only digital humidity gauges are accurate, but in this case you don't need anything like that. I'd place it in an area that is about 75 degrees.

Mine is underneath the wireless router. Despite the snickering, she's doing great & is always visible with a good appetite.

While this species is hardy, I'd try for mid 70s instead of high 60s or low 70s. Why? They are naturally slow growers so raising the metabolism probably won't hurt.

Despite being a dry spider, I always provide a waterdish with water in it.

They also photograph very well and the colors emerge true to life. Lots of getting videos are required!!

Mine will eat roaches, crickets & mealworms, usually only one at a time.

While they can be handled, this should be kept to a minimum. A catch cup, lid and paintbrush are your friends as are they with any other tarantula.
 

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