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Mold in enclosure

Sonny Red

New Member
3 Year Member
Messages
8
I have a female rose hair tarantula about five years old, recently I've noticed mold growing in the enclosure at first I didn't worry too much. I then noticed a patch of mold growing on her back over her back opening. I was able to gently get it off with tweezers but the mold had grown in the opening in her back. I cleaned the cage and changed the substrate to moss but mold began growing in there too. I'm not sure what to do. I do not want her to die from the mold growing on her body. Would any of you know how to get the mold off her and stop the growth of the spores? Your help would mean a lot thanks.
 

Pasodama

Well-Known Member
3 Year Member
Messages
423
Location
U.S.A.
If you have mold, it means that the enclosure is humid and, rather likely, does not have good ventilation.

Rosies are not supposed to be kept in humid, &/or moist, conditions.
They like it, and need it, dry.
Dry substrate, and a water bowl, should be sufficient.
The water bowl will help with any needed humidity and hydration.
"Once, or twice, a year", you can add a wee bit of water, to the substrate, in a corner or along the side.

A much more arid enclosure will help with eradicating/preventing mold as well.

You need to clean the enclosure very well.
Use soap.
Adding a drop of bleach, to the soapy water, wouldn't hurt either.
Regardless of whether you use bleach, or not, you will have to rinse the enclosure ~very~ well to ensure you remove any soap, &/or bleach, residue.
A step further, you could, also, fill the container/enclosure, with clean water (after rinsing very well), and let it sit, for an hour, to leach out any remaining residue... or place in a bathtub, of water, if enclosure cannot be filled with water.

It would be best to replace any plastic plants, hides, etc., but, if not replaced, any/all items need to be cleaned/disinfected as well. Including water bowl if you have one. If there is not a water bowl, add one.

Hopefully, the mold, on your Rosie, only exists externally. Internally would not be good.
You can use a q-tip and dab/brush on some diluted betadine only where the mold is on your Rosie. Be very careful applying this and only enough to leave a thin film (do not apply heavily at all).
Use a different q-tip after any/every single brush along the mold line/area.

Someone has used human fungal cream, applied very thinly, with success. Not sure whether to advise this, or not, but just adding this tidbit of info.
 

Sonny Red

New Member
3 Year Member
Messages
8
If you have mold, it means that the enclosure is humid and, rather likely, does not have good ventilation.

Rosies are not supposed to be kept in humid, &/or moist, conditions.
They like it, and need it, dry.
Dry substrate, and a water bowl, should be sufficient.
The water bowl will help with any needed humidity and hydration.
"Once, or twice, a year", you can add a wee bit of water, to the substrate, in a corner or along the side.

A much more arid enclosure will help with eradicating/preventing mold as well.

You need to clean the enclosure very well.
Use soap.
Adding a drop of bleach, to the soapy water, wouldn't hurt either.
Regardless of whether you use bleach, or not, you will have to rinse the enclosure ~very~ well to ensure you remove any soap, &/or bleach, residue.
A step further, you could, also, fill the container/enclosure, with clean water (after rinsing very well), and let it sit, for an hour, to leach out any remaining residue... or place in a bathtub, of water, if enclosure cannot be filled with water.

It would be best to replace any plastic plants, hides, etc., but, if not replaced, any/all items need to be cleaned/disinfected as well. Including water bowl if you have one. If there is not a water bowl, add one.

Hopefully, the mold, on your Rosie, only exists externally. Internally would not be good.
You can use a q-tip and dab/brush on some diluted betadine only where the mold is on your Rosie. Be very careful applying this and only enough to leave a thin film (do not apply heavily at all).
Use a different q-tip after any/every single brush along the mold line/area.

Someone has used human fungal cream, applied very thinly, with success. Not sure whether to advise this, or not, but just adding this tidbit of info.
 

kormath

Well-Known Member
1,000+ Post Club
3 Year Member
Messages
3,565
Location
Idaho
bleach is a little extreme i think, plus the fumes can be harmful. I've always just spot cleaned mold. Scoop it out with a spoon or similar, get the substrate it's on and a bit beneath that. never had it grow back.

The humidity is a real concern with the rosea though. If it were me i'd dump the substrate, put it in the oven at 200F for a couple hours to dry it out and kill anything else that may be growing in it. Or if you have spare substrate dump the moist and replace with fresh dry.
 

Pasodama

Well-Known Member
3 Year Member
Messages
423
Location
U.S.A.
bleach is a little extreme i think, plus the fumes can be harmful. I've always just spot cleaned mold. Scoop it out with a spoon or similar, get the substrate it's on and a bit beneath that. never had it grow back.

Just for my own peace of mind, you do know I did not mean straight bleach, right?
A "drop in a bucket" (of water), and with very good rinsing (or ~especially~ leaching), fumes should not be a concern.
You are right, however, in that it may not even be needed. Heck, just drier conditions (after clean up) will help immensely.

I am just so used to, safely, using bleach (a great killer of mold, viruses, etc.,), ammonia, or other, for critter & reptile tanks/enclosures (never harming a single critter/animal), that I guess I think nothing of it.
 

kormath

Well-Known Member
1,000+ Post Club
3 Year Member
Messages
3,565
Location
Idaho
Just for my own peace of mind, you do know I did not mean straight bleach, right?
A "drop in a bucket" (of water), and with very good rinsing (or ~especially~ leaching), fumes should not be a concern.
You are right, however, in that it may not even be needed. Heck, just drier conditions (after clean up) will help immensely.

I am just so used to, safely, using bleach (a great killer of mold, viruses, etc.,), ammonia, or other, for critter & reptile tanks/enclosures (never harming a single critter/animal), that I guess I think nothing of it.
yep i figured that. Fumes are thought to be a cause of DKS, so why risk it when bleach won't kill mold? Germs, viruses, etc. yes, but not mold or mildew ;)
 

Pasodama

Well-Known Member
3 Year Member
Messages
423
Location
U.S.A.
yep i figured that. Fumes are thought to be a cause of DKS, so why risk it when bleach won't kill mold? Germs, viruses, etc. yes, but not mold or mildew ;)

I think you are partially correct about bleach not killing mold. It depends on what item/material, that it is used on (porous vs. non-porous), as to whether it will kill mold or not.
Maybe type of mold as well? ... but am not certain about that.
However, I can see your point about not risking it where Ts are concerned.:)
 

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