New Tarantula

[Iya]

Hi,
I am new to the spider world, I have always been terrified of them, but for some reason become more interested. I am a preschool teacher and thought that a tarantula would be a great pet and a great addition to the science area. I did research before I purchased one, and found that a terrestrial species would be the best. After searching all the pet stores in my area I finally found a 8 month Chilean Copper. He is no bigger than 2 inches, may be a little smaller. My son instantly fell in love, named him Louie, and asked to keep him.
So, now with a new pet in my home, he is in a 10 gal. tank with Eco earth substrate. A mini heat mat under the tank, and a 50 watt infrared light above. The only thing in his tank besides the water dish is a hide.
Well, the first night he stood on the cooler side of the tank leaning up against the glass. He finally found his hide, made a web on the ground inside the web and has not left since. I have offered food, but he has not eaten. I looked up his behavior on the web and there isn't much info on the Chilean copper. I purchased him 6 days ago.
Any advice?

 

[Chubbs]

Not sure why you have a heat lamp for it, but I'd ditch it unless you want a cooked spider. These aren't reptiles. A lot of us who have been in the hobby don't really use common names anymore. I'm guessing this is some species of Grammastola, which are known for fasting a lot. If it's spinning a web on the floor it may be about to molt,b in which case there should be no crickets in there. I personally don't use heat mats, I prefer space heaters for heating. I really hope you're not planning on handling this tarantula or allowing any kids to do so. These aren't animals for handling. Remember to research next time before purchasing the animal. NO tarantula should have a heat lamp and with all due respect, any reliable source would have told you this.

 

[Iya]

I did a lot of research, as I posted on my first post. I read a book that said to avoid heat rocks, but it said that a heat mat is the way to go. When researching the web it says the same. I went and talked with the people at the pet store and they say the same. I researched this animal awhile before I bought it, went down the line to make sure I purchased the right one for viewing. Why would I allow preschool student handle a spider that can potential harm them, it is just for viewing. I also read that during a molt the tempts and humidity should be warm to help with a successful molt, the heat lamo is not in the tank, it is above.

 

[Chubbs]

I did a lot of research, as I posted on my first post. I read a book that said to avoid heat rocks, but it said that a heat mat is the way to go. When researching the web it says the same. I went and talked with the people at the pet store and they say the same. I researched this animal awhile before I bought it, went down the line to make sure I purchased the right one for viewing. Why would I allow preschool student handle a spider that can potential harm them, it is just for viewing. I also read that during a molt the tempts and humidity should be warm to help with a successful molt, the heat lamo is not in the tank, it is above.

The heat lamp shouldn't be there period. I really don't get why some of you come here seeking advice, and then you get mad when the advice you get isn't what you want to hear. It doesn't make sense when you're completely new to keeping tarantulas to argue with someone who is more experienced and has been keeping them longer. I've been keeping tarantulas for 12 years, I've never once needed a heat lamp. Tarantulas hate light for one and like I said it can still be dangerous for them. Pet stores don't normally specialize in tarantulas, so they tend to have limited knowledge. It's best to ask places like here where people who specialize in keeping these animals can help.

 

[Iya]

What I don't understand is when someone new comes for advice and the ones that think they know it all, and instead of giving advice they call them down and call them out. I understand that you have had tarantulas for 12 years, that's great. But us new people come here to ask questions, which you did not answer, you just attacked. If you want to help, answer my question as well as give advice, don't just attack.

 

[Chubbs]

What I don't understand is when someone new comes for advice and the ones that think they know it all, and instead of giving advice they call them down and call them out. I understand that you have had tarantulas for 12 years, that's great. But us new people come here to ask questions, which you did not answer, you just attacked. If you want to help, answer my question as well as give advice, don't just attack.

I never claimed to know everything. I can't help it if that's the way you choose to take it. There are people who have been in this hobby far longer than I and I don't consider myself an expert by any means. But hey, I don't know what I'm talking about anyway, so just do what you wanna do.

 

[Fleas]

A two inches grammostola should be on dry substrate at least 4 inches for borrowing and have a hide/water dish. No heat lamps you can use a heat mat on the side but I would recommend a space heater in the room it's in. The 10 gallon tank is way to big for a 2 inch t I would go get a smaller container for it and welcomed to the hobby/forum

 

[Iya]

A two inches grammostola should be on dry substrate at least 4 inches for borrowing and have a hide/water dish. No heat lamps you can use a heat mat on the side but I would recommend a space heater in the room it's in. The 10 gallon tank is way to big for a 2 inch t I would go get a smaller container for it and welcomed to the hobby/forum

I appreciate any help, but the way it was approached took me off guard. After I read your response I decided to look into what you said, but looked up heating lamps and heating pads. The response I got back was exactly what you said. I am shocked because I looked into many websites, I read a book, and even spoke to someone who I believe had the knowledge, led me to believe that one was necessary do to the fact of air conditioners. In the pet stores the spiders are all under lights. I can't act like I know everything either, when I am only learning, but I thought that with all the research that I done (I even took notes), I wasn't going in blind. I turned off the lamp and the heater, I hope I did not harm him. I do apologize for getting defensive, thanks for the help. So do you think that with the lamp and the heater is what caused him to act weird? Or do you think he might be going through a molt? If you don't want to give additional advice I understand, sorry for before, and thanks for the help.

 

[Iya]

A two inches grammostola should be on dry substrate at least 4 inches for borrowing and have a hide/water dish. No heat lamps you can use a heat mat on the side but I would recommend a space heater in the room it's in. The 10 gallon tank is way to big for a 2 inch t I would go get a smaller container for it and welcomed to the hobby/forum

Thank you so much, do you suggest a large critter keeper they sell at the pet store?

 

[Chubbs]

Thank you so much, do you suggest a large critter keeper they sell at the pet store?

For a 2 inch tarantula I'd use a smaller one. Tarantulas don't need much room at all. You can keep a 5 to 6 inch tarantula in a 5 gal tank just fine.

 

[Iya]

For a 2 inch tarantula I'd use a smaller one. Tarantulas don't need much room at all. You can keep a 5 to 6 inch tarantula in a 5 gal tank just fine.

I thought it was too big, but when I went to ask for advice a the pet store, she said that he was just fine in that size tank. Would it harmful to leave him in this size?

 

[Chubbs]

I thought it was too big, but when I went to ask for advice a the pet store, she said that he was just fine in that size tank. Would it harmful to leave him in this size?

Tarantulas don't like wide open spaces, it makes them feel exposed and can stress them out. It also makes finding prey difficult for them.

 

[DeanoMolly]

Hi @Iya,
To be fair to @Chubbs he's always been extremely helpful to me, but he's a straight talking guy lol! I always think I spent to much time worrying about the temp, I just think if I'm in shorts n t shirt and warm, then they will be fine, if I'm chilly then the heating goes on!! I've also found that in England the pet shops to be a bit, mmmm, turd!! I've been told a rosea will never bite (false) that a tarantula was one breed when it wasn't, that bug balls are better than water (puzzled)! Not saying there all wrong but not always accurate, but for beginner tarantulas its more simple than we first assume (correct me on my terrible spelling)

 

[TheJuicyFruit]

Ditch the lamp for sure it's not safe for T's as stated by chubbs (Who can be a d*ck but is right here), and unless your house gets much below 68 for a long period of time, I wouldn't use a heating mat either (Especially not with a plastic terrarium), because they may burrow down and get burned by it, but if you do, you'll have to have it controlled by a thermostat for the safety of the T. Also the common name "Rose Hair" isn't the same as the "Chilean Copper" The T in my avatar is a Phrixotrichus Scrofa (One of the common names is Chilean Copper), while the "Rose hair" or "Chilean Rose" is generally given to many of the Grammostola genus, particularly Rosea or Porteri. Their care is much the same, but Grammostolas get much larger, so it may help to be sure, a picture would help, if it isn't too small to tell.

If it is a G Rosea, don't expect it to eat any time soon, they're notorious for their ability to not eat. It'll eat when it's hungry, just don't leave crickets in overnight, because if he molts, the cricket may actually kill him in his most vulnerable state.

 

[Chubbs]

Ditch the lamp for sure it's not safe for T's as stated by chubbs (Who can be a d*ck but is right here), and unless your house gets much below 68 for a long period of time, I wouldn't use a heating mat either (Especially not with a plastic terrarium), because they may burrow down and get burned by it, but if you do, you'll have to have it controlled by a thermostat for the safety of the T. Also the common name "Rose Hair" isn't the same as the "Chilean Copper" The T in my avatar is a Phrixotrichus Scrofa (One of the common names is Chilean Copper), while the "Rose hair" or "Chilean Rose" is generally given to many of the Grammostola genus, particularly Rosea or Porteri. Their care is much the same, but Grammostolas get much larger, so it may help to be sure, a picture would help, if it isn't too small to tell.

If it is a G Rosea, don't expect it to eat any time soon, they're notorious for their ability to not eat. It'll eat when it's hungry, just don't leave crickets in overnight, because if he molts, the cricket may actually kill him in his most vulnerable state.

Ummm thanks? I realize I can be a bit straight forward at times, I don't think that makes me a jerk (I'd advise watching your language in case the mods see this) like you're saying. I don't feel the need to baby people every time. If people perceive being blunt as being rude, then that's nothing I can help.

 

[Therasoid]

Ditch the lamp for sure it's not safe for T's as stated by chubbs (Who can be a d*ck but is right here), and unless your house gets much below 68 for a long period of time, I wouldn't use a heating mat either (Especially not with a plastic terrarium), because they may burrow down and get burned by it, but if you do, you'll have to have it controlled by a thermostat for the safety of the T. Also the common name "Rose Hair" isn't the same as the "Chilean Copper" The T in my avatar is a Phrixotrichus Scrofa (One of the common names is Chilean Copper), while the "Rose hair" or "Chilean Rose" is generally given to many of the Grammostola genus, particularly Rosea or Porteri. Their care is much the same, but Grammostolas get much larger, so it may help to be sure, a picture would help, if it isn't too small to tell.

If it is a G Rosea, don't expect it to eat any time soon, they're notorious for their ability to not eat. It'll eat when it's hungry, just don't leave crickets in overnight, because if he molts, the cricket may actually kill him in his most vulnerable state.

I agree, especially the species, on this info. If in fact its P. scrofa, imported from Argentina/Chile, temps in 68-74 degrees are fine. Dry substrate, small water dish, a hide and if you want add fake foliage or some sphagnum moss to decorate the enclosure.
I have mine in a 5"X5"X9" steralite container and she is 2 1/2". These are a semi dwarf species, barely 4" at maturity and very active at night. When the lid is removed she comes out of the hide and begins roaming about. She is similar to another keeper in my area that has some C. bertae. As in nonchalantly trying to climb out of the enclosure. Lol! Not what I see as a big webber although she laid a thick mat on her last molt. Eats well, not aggressively, taking 1/2" cricket/roach weekly. Hope you do have this species, as G. rosea/porteri aren't a beginner species regardless of what a pet store states. Imo, more for a novice, due to the statements mentioned in earlier replies.
Here's a photo of my girl.

Ditch the lamp for sure it's not safe for T's as stated by chubbs (Who can be a d*ck but is right here), and unless your house gets much below 68 for a long period of time, I wouldn't use a heating mat either (Especially not with a plastic terrarium), because they may burrow down and get burned by it, but if you do, you'll have to have it controlled by a thermostat for the safety of the T. Also the common name "Rose Hair" isn't the same as the "Chilean Copper" The T in my avatar is a Phrixotrichus Scrofa (One of the common names is Chilean Copper), while the "Rose hair" or "Chilean Rose" is generally given to many of the Grammostola genus, particularly Rosea or Porteri. Their care is much the same, but Grammostolas get much larger, so it may help to be sure, a picture would help, if it isn't too small to tell.

If it is a G Rosea, don't expect it to eat any time soon, they're notorious for their ability to not eat. It'll eat when it's hungry, just don't leave crickets in overnight, because if he molts, the cricket may actually kill him in his most vulnerable state.

I agree, especially the species, on this info. If in fact its P. scrofa, imported from Argentina/Chile, ambient room temps in 68-74 degree range are fine. Using electrical heat sources just adds more $ to your utility bill. You can do a climate search on these countries if you wish. Dry substrate, small water dish, a hide and if you want add fake foliage or some sphagnum moss to decorate the enclosure. I consider P. scrofa a docile/ inquisitive species even when rehousing.
I have mine in a 5"X5"X9" steralite container and she is 2 1/2". These are a semi dwarf species, barely 4" at maturity and very active at night. When the lid is removed she comes out of the hide and begins roaming about. She is similar to another keeper in my area that has some C. bertae. As in nonchalantly trying to climb out of the enclosure. Lol! Not what I see as a big webber although she laid a very thick mat on her last molt. Eats well, not aggressively, taking 1/2" cricket/roach weekly. Hope you do have this species, as G. rosea/porteri aren't a beginner species regardless of what a pet store states. Imo, more for a novice keeper, due to the statements mentioned in earlier replies on fasting and mood swings.
Enjoy the new T and welcome to the "addiction". [emoji3]

 

[AceTRetreat]

I totally agree with Therasoid ... they are great little T's! I keep mine exactly the same way ... Sterilite plastic tub/container with dry substrate, small/shallow water dish, a hide (PVC pipe cut in half .. plastic half log .. lol), and some fake foliage .... eats great weekly and very easy to work around/with. I do have and love my G. porteri but do believe the Copper to be a better choice as a beginner T .... smaller, eat better, and more consistent docile personality Enjoy your "kid" and indeed welcome to the addiction of this hobby!

 

[AceTRetreat]

Afternoon Therasoid -- Do you have a Paraphysa scrofa as in the one sold as such till recently but now due to classification is said to be a Euathlus species of some sort (single window patch) or the reclassified Phrixotrichus scrofa (two lateral patches)? Just curious as I have the former which will make it interesting to find a mate once I can get a molt for sexing now that it is 2.5 inches.

 

[Therasoid]

Afternoon Therasoid -- Do you have a Paraphysa scrofa as in the one sold as such till recently but now due to classification is said to be a Euathlus species of some sort (single window patch) or the reclassified Phrixotrichus scrofa (two lateral patches)? Just curious as I have the former which will make it interesting to find a mate once I can get a molt for sexing now that it is 2.5 inches.

Sorry for the delayed response. She was labeled as Phrixotrichus scrofa and bought it out of sympathy. Kept in a 16 oz deli cup with soaking wet eco earth and a sponge as the water source. Now she has a more suitable living environment in my care. No regrets buying her as she is a beautiful specimen.

 

[RedCapTrio]

A two inches grammostola should be on dry substrate at least 4 inches for borrowing and have a hide/water dish. No heat lamps you can use a heat mat on the side but I would recommend a space heater in the room it's in. The 10 gallon tank is way to big for a 2 inch t I would go get a smaller container for it and welcomed to the hobby/forum

The Chilean copper is according to Google Paraphysa scrofa as opposed to your grammostola as in Chilean rose. The P. scrofa is said to be a dwarf T and would not get any larger as compared to the Chilean rose.

To @Iya Try an albo or smithi for your class instead. Just my two cents, also a newbie right here.

Welcome!