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<blockquote data-quote="Nada" data-source="post: 23909" data-attributes="member: 361"><p>This is something I wrote for a Facebook group, and I think it fits here as well</p><p> </p><p>Beginners are welcome here, But we ask that they please read this post</p><p>Beginner Basics.</p><p>1) Feeding: One prey item a week is plenty for any tarantula. Roaches,Crickets/Locusts, and Silk Worms are the best and most nutritious food sources. All uneaten prey should be removed after 24 hours. Feeding Mice and other vertebrates is not necessary and not recommended. Tarantulas should not be fed one week before and after a molt. On occasion Tarantulas will stop eating for long periods of time. This is normal. Do not worry; as long as the abdomen (butt) is similar size to the carapace(head) you are fine.</p><p>2) Water: Tarantulas drink water, you may not see them do it but they do. They do not need sponges or gel crystals. They can not drink from them. A simple shallow water bowl is best. For slings a weekly misting is fine.</p><p>3) Molting: Molting is how Tarantulas grow. A tarantula on its back is NOT dead, but preparing to molt. DO NOT flip it over as this can injure or kill your tarantula. The molting process can take as little as one hour or as long as two days. Be patient, and let it do its thing, do not interfere. Once your tarantula has molted it is important that you do not touch or disturb it in any way. Allow your tarantula a week or more to harden up.</p><p>4) Sexing: To sex a tarantula accurately you need an exuvium (molt/shed skin) . Open the Abdominal are of the molt, and look for a flap. If the flap is there you have a female if not a male. This varies from species to species so feel free to post clear pictures and we'll do our best to help. Ventral sexing can occasionally be done, but it is not 100% accurate .</p><p>5) Husbandry: Tarantulas are easily kept, but there are a few must haves. You must have a place for your tarantula to Hide. This can be a pies of Cork bark, a cork tube, flower pot, or any number of other options. All Tarantulas need a water source (see #2). Substrate is important. Coco coir is the most commonly used substrate. Potting soil, peat moss, and mixes can also work. Sand, Gravel (fish tank rocks) and wood chips are NOT good. Substrate should be high for terrestrials and low for arboreal.</p><p>6) Humidity: Misting your tarantula does not create humidity, it creates wetness. To raise humidity overflow your tarantulas water bowl every couple weeks. To lower humidity allow the tank to air out on its own.</p><p>7) Handling: Handling is a highly debated topic. I am personally against it but that is not to say it can't be done. If done It should be done only occasionally. Handling can be a very stressful thing for tarantulas and should be done as little as possible. It also needs to be done very close to the floor, even a small fall can injure or kill your tarantula as they are very fragile.</p><p>8 ) Knowing your tarantula: It is very important to know the animal you have. For instance; G.Rosea (the Chilean Rose Tarantula) is a desert species from Chile. It likes it Dry, and likes a lot of hiding places. But many new keepers keep the rose as a tropical tarantula. Do research on your specific species of tarantula.</p><p>9) Genus, and species: In the world of tarantulas, common names are useless. Learn the Latin names of your tarantula to better research your pet.</p><p>10) Terminology:</p><p>Arboreal: Tree dweller needs height</p><p>Terrestrial: Ground dweller</p><p>Fossorial: Burrower needs depth</p><p>MM: Mature Male</p><p>AF: Adult Female</p><p>EWL: eggs with legs (post embryo)</p><p>1i.2i,3i etc: first instar/1st molt</p><p>NW: new world (the Americas)</p><p>OW: old world (Africa,asia,australlia etc)</p><p>1.2.3: 1 male 2 female 3 unsexed.</p><p> </p><p>feel free to add if you think I left anything out, or ask questions.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Nada, post: 23909, member: 361"] This is something I wrote for a Facebook group, and I think it fits here as well Beginners are welcome here, But we ask that they please read this post Beginner Basics. 1) Feeding: One prey item a week is plenty for any tarantula. Roaches,Crickets/Locusts, and Silk Worms are the best and most nutritious food sources. All uneaten prey should be removed after 24 hours. Feeding Mice and other vertebrates is not necessary and not recommended. Tarantulas should not be fed one week before and after a molt. On occasion Tarantulas will stop eating for long periods of time. This is normal. Do not worry; as long as the abdomen (butt) is similar size to the carapace(head) you are fine. 2) Water: Tarantulas drink water, you may not see them do it but they do. They do not need sponges or gel crystals. They can not drink from them. A simple shallow water bowl is best. For slings a weekly misting is fine. 3) Molting: Molting is how Tarantulas grow. A tarantula on its back is NOT dead, but preparing to molt. DO NOT flip it over as this can injure or kill your tarantula. The molting process can take as little as one hour or as long as two days. Be patient, and let it do its thing, do not interfere. Once your tarantula has molted it is important that you do not touch or disturb it in any way. Allow your tarantula a week or more to harden up. 4) Sexing: To sex a tarantula accurately you need an exuvium (molt/shed skin) . Open the Abdominal are of the molt, and look for a flap. If the flap is there you have a female if not a male. This varies from species to species so feel free to post clear pictures and we'll do our best to help. Ventral sexing can occasionally be done, but it is not 100% accurate . 5) Husbandry: Tarantulas are easily kept, but there are a few must haves. You must have a place for your tarantula to Hide. This can be a pies of Cork bark, a cork tube, flower pot, or any number of other options. All Tarantulas need a water source (see #2). Substrate is important. Coco coir is the most commonly used substrate. Potting soil, peat moss, and mixes can also work. Sand, Gravel (fish tank rocks) and wood chips are NOT good. Substrate should be high for terrestrials and low for arboreal. 6) Humidity: Misting your tarantula does not create humidity, it creates wetness. To raise humidity overflow your tarantulas water bowl every couple weeks. To lower humidity allow the tank to air out on its own. 7) Handling: Handling is a highly debated topic. I am personally against it but that is not to say it can't be done. If done It should be done only occasionally. Handling can be a very stressful thing for tarantulas and should be done as little as possible. It also needs to be done very close to the floor, even a small fall can injure or kill your tarantula as they are very fragile. 8 ) Knowing your tarantula: It is very important to know the animal you have. For instance; G.Rosea (the Chilean Rose Tarantula) is a desert species from Chile. It likes it Dry, and likes a lot of hiding places. But many new keepers keep the rose as a tropical tarantula. Do research on your specific species of tarantula. 9) Genus, and species: In the world of tarantulas, common names are useless. Learn the Latin names of your tarantula to better research your pet. 10) Terminology: Arboreal: Tree dweller needs height Terrestrial: Ground dweller Fossorial: Burrower needs depth MM: Mature Male AF: Adult Female EWL: eggs with legs (post embryo) 1i.2i,3i etc: first instar/1st molt NW: new world (the Americas) OW: old world (Africa,asia,australlia etc) 1.2.3: 1 male 2 female 3 unsexed. feel free to add if you think I left anything out, or ask questions. [/QUOTE]
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