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<blockquote data-quote="Phil" data-source="post: 82821" data-attributes="member: 4151"><p>Temperature usually sparks almost as much debate as humidity. I tend to keep all mine (23), including my B. Emelia at about 75 to 78 during the day so your day temp is fine. I also turn any heating off for approx 4 to 6 hours at night as that is a bit more natural. 70 IMHO will be ok as mine often goes down to that. Not sure where you live but I am in UK and so ambient temps are never really high. I read a lot of posts on here from US members who are lucky enough to just have in the house. Some even have a chiller as it gets too hot....lol. Heat pads are often frowned upon but side mounted is better for us in case they burrowed and hit the heat source. I do use heat mats but they are a) all on thermostats so no chance of overhearing, b) on timers like I have mentioned, c) protected by cork bark or other safe material so not actually in contact with the glass, and finally so low powered (5watts) with a variable dial that tbh, nothing will hurt them but they do take the edge off especially in winter. If your house is centrally heated, just turn the rad up in the room the T is in if the hear mat is struggling. Never have a heat mat that covers more than one third of the tank as your spider will want it's warm moments as well as its cool moments so they have a choice. </p><p>I may as well mention humidity now seeing as I mentioned at the start. B. Emelia like the substrate dry usually but always have an open water dish with fresh water (I boil and cool down all my water for drinking and misting). When reaching pre-moult ( the time they shed their skin to grow) you will probably see a couple of tell tale signs at that size. These being, darkening of the colours and if there is a bald patch on the abdomen, darkening as new hairs are growing underneath. The spider will also stop feeding so always remove any live prey that is not eaten within say 12 to 18 hours max. At this stage, I would mist the part of the tank they are settling in to so there is a little bit more humidity as this helps the moulting process.</p><p>Sorry about length of response and any spelling kistakes but one thing just led to another....lol</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Phil, post: 82821, member: 4151"] Temperature usually sparks almost as much debate as humidity. I tend to keep all mine (23), including my B. Emelia at about 75 to 78 during the day so your day temp is fine. I also turn any heating off for approx 4 to 6 hours at night as that is a bit more natural. 70 IMHO will be ok as mine often goes down to that. Not sure where you live but I am in UK and so ambient temps are never really high. I read a lot of posts on here from US members who are lucky enough to just have in the house. Some even have a chiller as it gets too hot....lol. Heat pads are often frowned upon but side mounted is better for us in case they burrowed and hit the heat source. I do use heat mats but they are a) all on thermostats so no chance of overhearing, b) on timers like I have mentioned, c) protected by cork bark or other safe material so not actually in contact with the glass, and finally so low powered (5watts) with a variable dial that tbh, nothing will hurt them but they do take the edge off especially in winter. If your house is centrally heated, just turn the rad up in the room the T is in if the hear mat is struggling. Never have a heat mat that covers more than one third of the tank as your spider will want it's warm moments as well as its cool moments so they have a choice. I may as well mention humidity now seeing as I mentioned at the start. B. Emelia like the substrate dry usually but always have an open water dish with fresh water (I boil and cool down all my water for drinking and misting). When reaching pre-moult ( the time they shed their skin to grow) you will probably see a couple of tell tale signs at that size. These being, darkening of the colours and if there is a bald patch on the abdomen, darkening as new hairs are growing underneath. The spider will also stop feeding so always remove any live prey that is not eaten within say 12 to 18 hours max. At this stage, I would mist the part of the tank they are settling in to so there is a little bit more humidity as this helps the moulting process. Sorry about length of response and any spelling kistakes but one thing just led to another....lol [/QUOTE]
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