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temperature question

Tricocyst

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3 Year Member
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226
Location
Kentucky
I am about to buy my first poecilotheria regalis and the temps suggest 75-80 some even say 85.. my house stays about 70-72 during winter but summer my ac unit gets down to 68 upto 70 and I'm aware 68 is to cold but what should I do to bring the tank upto 75-80? I'm thinking about a uth heater applied to the back of the cage set on a timer and seeing as how spiders don't like light I figured this was my only option? I really don't want to buy a portable space heater if I can avoid it
 

Pearl Dusenbery

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162
Location
Illinois
The only problem with applying a heater directly to the back of the tank is that T's can't sense the hotter temp and can get burnt if they climb over it. I am working on a cabinet that has a heater attached to it then my tanks inside it making a micro climate.
 

Denny Dee

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If it is only one tank, I would suggest a heat pad. Only apply it to half of the bottom so the T can retreat to a slightly cooler area of the substrate. If you are going to expand your collection, I would follow IamKrush's advice.
 

khatchet

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894
if you could keep your home a bet warmer in the summer, i have always kept mine at room temp with is always about 70 for me. they all do fine at that. When the ac is running the hot mist humitafer is almost a must to keep humdity right though
 

Whitelightning777

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The main concept with heat is that the source need to be far enough away or spread out to prevent localized hot spots.

If it burns your hand, no good. The heat should come from the top or the side. Inverts are hard wired to assume that high areas are hotter regardless of the facts.

If they overheat, they always go down and dark. Of course they roast if the heat is under them or under a hide. The heat source should never be under ground either.

I keep mine at 80. Others do it differently. I have also used a hot side/ cold side setup for my Klugi and the scorpion. I use a voltage controller and never run it higher than 50 percent. (Mandatory) I only use 25 watt bulbs or ceramics.

The growth rate for the new worlds is very good and the activity level is moderate. They eat 2x or 3x per week. The balfouri sling is developing more slowly but still has a great appetite.

Both the Klugi and versicolor molt 4-6 weeks. I'm trying to get these slings past the vulnerable young stage in life.

Still, most can get away with room temps.

My pokie (striata) also shows the same moderate activity levels but since I just got it, I still need to see how often it'll eat and what it likes.

They all move to the areas that are 80 to within a degree each way except for the P Striata which likes 82 degrees. I use a digital point thermometer which you aim and get the temp for specific spots.

Like I said before, lots of folks just do room temp.
 

PeZi

New Member
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15
Location
Czech republic
Hallo, I have my P. regalis (about 4cm body) at temp about 70 - 72. I also have P. rufilatas, temp about 80, and the only difrence that regalis is two times slower - she eats only once a week and molted after two or three months after one month without food. Rufilatas eat every second or third day and molt after 30-50 days after about 10-15 days without food.
 
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Arachnoclown

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Hallo, I have my P. regalis (about 4cm body) at temp about 70 - 72. I also have P. rufilatas, temp about 80, and the only difrence that regalis is two times slower - she eats only once a week and molted after two or three months after one month without food. Rufilatas eat every second or third day and molt after 30-50 days after about 10-15 days without food.

What's the point of this?? So you feed one normal at a normal comfortable temperature and you heat up another and over feed it...
 
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PeZi

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Czech republic
What's the point of this?? So you feed one normal at a normal comfortable temperature and you heat up another and over feed it...

It is just an experience. P regalis I bought as a bit bigger female, I have it in my living room at final biotop enclosure. But several P. rufilatas I bought as very small slings (second or third molt) and I have them at special room where I have mainly basic enclosures for growing slings, temp is higher there. So, when my slings will be about 4-5 cm, I will keep one female and sell the rest. And the female will be moved to her final enclosure at living room to the same temp as regalis :) But it is valid only during winter, when I have 71-72 at all normal rooms. At spring and autumn it is about 75-76, during summer, mainly July/August, temp can be about 86 for several days. Is this logical explanation for you?
 

Whitelightning777

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80 degrees is probably closer to the actual wild temperature they encounter in the wild.

My pokie feeds about twice a week to stay nourished looking. Lately, thanks to a shipment of Dubai roaches, he's eating very well indeed.

Tarantulas probably won't starve to death if fed once a week and some of the slower ones eat much less but why underfeed them?

It's also in my opinion important to feed a variety of food if they'll take it, MORE so if you're feeding less.
 

PeZi

New Member
3 Year Member
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15
Location
Czech republic
Your power feeding to meet your needs...got it.

I've got a 350 2nd instar slings living at 70 degrees right now.

No problem. But my tarantulas and breeding are not my job. I have/want only several females for my hobby, so I usually buy 4-5 sling and want to have them bigger, sexed and away as soon as possible... So it is the reason why I am power feedeing. Having T´s is long term hobby, I have no problem to have one sexed sling in low temp. But I have only limited space and if I want to add another T to my collection and want to buy new slings, I have to sell already sexed slings which I have now :-(
 

PeZi

New Member
3 Year Member
Messages
15
Location
Czech republic
80 degrees is probably closer to the actual wild temperature they encounter in the wild.

My pokie feeds about twice a week to stay nourished looking. Lately, thanks to a shipment of Dubai roaches, he's eating very well indeed.

Tarantulas probably won't starve to death if fed once a week and some of the slower ones eat much less but why underfeed them?

It's also in my opinion important to feed a variety of food if they'll take it, MORE so if you're feeding less.

I have one simple test - I look at T and check whether it is fat or no... :) I think that abdomen (I mean compared to carapax) size is good clue :)
 
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