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Lost 2 Ts in moults - convinced I'm doing something wrong but don't know what.

Steph1304

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Hi, apologies inadvance but this is a long post. (TLDR why have I lost 2 Ts in moult?)

I'm also aware I may get slated for some of my actions, but they were done with the best of intentions and I'm hoping to get some helpful advice rather than a telling off - trust me I doubt I could feel worse than I already do about it.

In January I got my first Ts: a juvenile B Smithii (5cm) and a C Versicolor (5 cm). Both were kept in cylindrical tarantula tanks which I purchased from the shop. The versicolor worried me as she didn't eat for a month, but then succesfully moulted. The smithii ate well from the start but then died in what appeared to be an upright moult approx 1 month ago (I posted on here at the time). Both had substrate also recommended by the shop and a waterbowl each which I checked and filled regularly.

When the smithii died I was convinced I'd done something wrong, but was advised that sometimes these things happen, so I took the plunge and bought an albopilosum (approx 12cm) and a Brazilian White Knee (5cm).

I had issues with the tank for the versicolor (also mentioned on here previously), so I bought a new tank with front opening doors so I could top up her waterbowl, remove unwanted food, monitor how damp the substrate was etc without damaging her web or having to leave my bare arm within inches of where she was lurking. I glued 2 water bowls to the cork bark and put in the plastic plants from her previous setup as she liked to chill in the orchid flowers (these were thoroughly washed before I used them). After I put her in the new set up she didn't want to eat again, even if I offered her meal worms on the edge of her web, but she had a good sized abdomen so I left it for a week and just kept an eye on her waterbowls. The following week she still didn't want food but still looked well fed, so again I left her to it thinking she may be due another moult -I was right, she was. I checked on her one evening about 13 days ago and saw that her carapace and abdomen had moulted and that she was moulting into adult colouration. The following morning she was still in the same boat, legs and underneath her body still in the old skin. I gave the tank a quick spray (avoiding spraying her) and monitored her throughout the day, but she wasn't getting any further and I was worrying about the old shell hardening. I called the vets, but no surprise they don't do Ts, so I took to the internet and found several posts and Youtube vids on rescuing stuck moults. In the end, after 48 hours from start of moult, I took the plunge and took her out and painted the old skin gently with a wet soft paintbrush to try and soften it further I did this every couple of hours for another 24 hours. When that failed too and she could only move her fangs I very carefully cut away the old skin. I managed to remove underneath and around her stomach ok, if anything she seemed relieved (kind of like taking a too tight bra off after a long day), and she started wriggling a bit more and her body literally seemed to expand, so I put her in an icu (tupperware tub lined with tissue and with air holes, a quick mist before she went in and a small waterbowl in the corner).

I got up every hour to check on her but by 4am there was still no difference and above her legs, she was starting to swell so one by one I very carefully cut away the old skin from her legs using a magnifying glass with built in light, tiny nail scissors and pointy tweezers.

I would work on her for an hour, dampen off the legs which were still encased and then leave her to recuperate for another hour before carrying on.

In total I worked on her for 48 hours. 4 legs refilled quite quickly and had some movement, 1 leg was withered to nothing and didn't refill, so I amputated it at the 1st joint and used vaseline on the cut as I know spiders cannot clot. The other 3 legs filled but seemed unresponsive. In the end all that was left in the old skin were her pedipalps but I had no idea how to remove the skin from them. I checked her and there was no sign of bleeding but I knew she was very weak so I decided to leave her for 4 hours to recuperate.

When I went back to her again to see what I could do with the pedipalps she was no longer responsive. I knew the chances of saving that small a spider stuck in such a moult were almost zero, but I had to at least try. I was still devastated though because after clearing her stomach area she had really started putting in more effort and I was really hoping she would pull through.

The problem I have now is I'm terrified of losing my other 2 in moults. Everything they do I'm analysing - my albo is sitting on the side of the tank (pictures below), does that mean she doesn't like the substrate? It isn't wet, it came out of the bag damp when I set it up 3 or 4 weeks ago, but I've read I should let it dry out before slightly overwatering the water bowl. I change the water twice a week using dechlorinated water (1 drop per 500ml) using a dechlorinator I also bought from the shop. Our water here is really hard (GH 16, pH 8.2), could this have an impact on the moulting process too?

Everytime I change the water my albo drops a bit of substrate in it and I have no idea why! She has also made a little bit of a mat on the ground with her silk - is this a sign of an upcoming moult?

She is still eating well and still doing her 'happy dance' each time she gets her food but I'm worrying constantly. The white knee also likes to sit on the side of the tank, just above the substrate - again she eats well but I'm worrying about her too :(

I've put up pics of my 2 remaining spiders and the set up I had the versicolor in (sorry about the quality). It has taken me a week to pluck up courage to write this post and to be able to do so without sobbing (too much) over my phone.

I feel ashamed and responsible for the loss of 2 lovely Ts, but I really want to make sure it doesn't happen again. Any constructive advice would therefore be gratefully appreciated.
 

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Arachnoclown

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Honestly your enclosures sound and look too big for the level of husbandry your at right now. Try using something much smaller with way better ventilation next time with slings. Deli cups and food containers are much easier to raise slings in then full size glass enclosures. Good luck on your new spiders.
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Nurse Ratchet

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Oh my. I haven't had to go through that yet and really can't offer advice, but I just had to say that it sounds like you truly went above and beyond. I'm so sorry you had to experience all of that.
Your enclosures are very attractive. As much as I loathe putting up with small containers, Arachnoclown is right. Smaller enclosures make care, feeding and monitoring the little ones easier.
I don't think that the larger enclosures contributed to your losses, but smaller may help decrease your stress level.
I wish you and your T's the best, and again, so sorry.
 

Steph1304

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58
Location
UK
Honestly your enclosures sound and look too big for the level of husbandry your at right now. Try using something much smaller with way better ventilation next time with slings. Deli cups and food containers are much easier to raise slings in then full size glass enclosures. Good luck on your new spiders.View attachment 65088View attachment 65089View attachment 65090View attachment 65091View attachment 65092View attachment 65093
Thank you so much for the advice :). Please can I check with you which container size to use for the white knee? She is currently 5 - 6 cm. Also the albo is a reasonable size (not exactly sure how to measure but I have a pic of her compared with my hand below) her tank is also 29cm diameter - what size should I be looking at for her?
 

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Arachnoclown

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Thank you so much for the advice :). Please can I check with you which container size to use for the white knee? She is currently 5 - 6 cm. Also the albo is a reasonable size (not exactly sure how to measure but I have a pic of her compared with my hand below) her tank is also 29cm diameter - what size should I be looking at for her?
It may be just me but your photos don't represent the size of spider your talking about. Looks like a 10 cm spider to me.
 

Steph1304

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Location
UK
It may be just me but your photos don't represent the size of spider your talking about. Looks like a 10 cm spider to me.
Hi, the albo is the bigger one I didn't know how to measure - which is why I put up a picture of her on my hand :) Thanks for your feedback of 10cm as I was guessing 10 - 12 but not sure.

The white knee was sold as 4.5cm - 7cm and as she's not much bigger than my versicolor was I guessed 5 - 6cm :)
 

Steph1304

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Location
UK
Oh my. I haven't had to go through that yet and really can't offer advice, but I just had to say that it sounds like you truly went above and beyond. I'm so sorry you had to experience all of that.
Your enclosures are very attractive. As much as I loathe putting up with small containers, Arachnoclown is right. Smaller enclosures make care, feeding and monitoring the little ones easier.
I don't think that the larger enclosures contributed to your losses, but smaller may help decrease your stress level.
I wish you and your T's the best, and again, so sorry.
 

Steph1304

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Location
UK
Oh my. I haven't had to go through that yet and really can't offer advice, but I just had to say that it sounds like you truly went above and beyond. I'm so sorry you had to experience all of that.
Your enclosures are very attractive. As much as I loathe putting up with small containers, Arachnoclown is right. Smaller enclosures make care, feeding and monitoring the little ones easier.
I don't think that the larger enclosures contributed to your losses, but smaller may help decrease your stress level.
I wish you and your T's the best, and again, so sorry.
Thank you for your kind words, I really appreciate them!

I guess one of the biggest mistakes I've made is trying to transfer the knowledge I've made from keeping fish into keeping Ts. In the fish world, the bigger the tank, the more stable it is, so I had assumed that I would find it easier to keep the humidity more stable in the larger tank and I was worried about sudden death in the versicolor due to the humidity being too high. I'd also assumed that as the versicolor had grown so much with her previous moult that it wouldn't be long before she needed a tank that size anyway.

I feel irritated with myself as I read so much on keeping Ts, from books to academic journals and blogs (and watched loads of youtube videos too) before I bought mine, but I still feel really unprepared now I've got them:
and although I'm learning as I go along there are so many things I wish I'd known upfront!

I'll look for and order new enclosures for the 6cm and 10cm Ts, if someone could suggest the best sizes for them, and hope that that makes a difference, but if I lose another to a moult I'll see about rehoming the other one as I don't want to be responsible for losing any more. Much though I love having them and watching them, their welfare comes first.

I just wish I knew what caused their moults to fail - they had filled fresh water bowls, slightly moist substrate, a brief misting once a week (3 squirts of the bottle on the opposite side of the tank), a constant temp of 24C during the day dropping to 19C at night, peace and quiet, a fairly dark room and 2 medium crickets every Thursday.
 

Steph1304

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It may be just me but your photos don't represent the size of spider your talking about. Looks like a 10 cm spider to me.
Sorry to keep posting but would something like this be better for the 6cm white knee?
 

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DustyD

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Also that one seems to be one that you put together, much like the Zilla microhabitat. They are not bad, but to me did not seem as sturdy as the regular ones. Hopefully someone from the UK can suggest some good terrestrial enclosures.
 

Steph1304

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Also that one seems to be one that you put together, much like the Zilla microhabitat. They are not bad, but to me did not seem as sturdy as the regular ones. Hopefully someone from the UK can suggest some good terrestrial enclosures.
Ah - I have the terrestrial version arriving today but thank you for your reply!

I noticed yesterday when I was in the office that there isn't much airflow in there. So I removed the draught excluder from the bottom of the door and ordered a large electric fan. I've also drilled extra holes in the sides of the cylinder tank for the albo.

I can't open the window as our weather is too cold, I also debated installing fans into the sides of the cabinet they're in but I was worried the vibrations would stress out the Ts so I've currently got the cabinet doors wide open (see pic).

Yesterday I checked the substrate on both tanks and it felt quite dry so I overwatered the waterbowls so about 25% of the substrate got damp.

What is a bit weird is when I first bought the 3 enclosures I kept one empty as I wanted an albo for it but they only had slings in stock. I put the inch or so of leftover substrate in there and put in a spare hydrometer to act as a control. By the time the hydrometer said 52% it was bone dry. Anyway when I got the albo I just topped up the substrate with the fresh as it had never been used.

But within an hour of overwatering yesterday, where the old substrate got damp it was full of tiny white dots (see pic below). The other tank with the white knee only has the new substrate in and hasn't been affected. I'm concerned in case it's some kind of mould, so I was debating whether to put the white knee in the new smaller enclosure when it comes and swap the albo over into the unaffected enclosure? Will the substrate be ok if it's already had the white knee in, or do I need to order more?

Again sorry for the long post, but I'm throwing money hand over fist trying to make this right, so I appreciate any help you can give! (At the moment only the top left and bottom right tanks have Ts, the other 2 are empty).
 

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octanejunkie

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Husbandry, specifically hydration is my best guess.
I've pretty much always been able to attribute molting loss to hydration. Sometimes over feeding comes into play, too.
Sorry for your losses :(
 

DustyD

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Steph1304. I have not kept your species, and i have only kept ts for a year, but let me try to answer some of your questions anyway.

It is fairly common for Ts to cover up or dirty up their water bowls. Some use it as a place to dump bolus or the unetable parts of their prey. Sometimes they just fill them with substrate. I have had some completely buried. Others have had theirs turned over.
Still it is vital to keep water in there. I add water/clean the dishes every other day or so, then again i only have nine spiders so fairly easy to do.
Here is my G. pulcripes with a bolus .
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I have semi arid species so i keep their substrate very dry. The water bowl and a bit of spaghnum moss helps retain some humidity. My G. pulchra, G. pulchripies and G.rosea have been in humid conditions ranging from 16 to 65% and done well. So I think that for many species, humidity is overused.

I think the white things could be mold, which may be indicative of too moist of a substrate/humidity.
 
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DustyD

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Your enclosed shelves have pluses and minuses. Once you get the conditions in place it should be fairly easy to regulate and the Ts are more secure from other animals and people. But it can make airflow a problem
 

DustyD

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Your enclosed shelves have pluses and minuses. Once you get the conditions in place it should be fairly easy to regulate and the Ts are more secure from other animals and people. But it can make airflow a problem.
Just becareful with too much breeze. Ts don't usually like a strong current. In the wild a change in air current could mean danger.
 

Sharno

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I know you said you lost them in the process of molting, and one died essentially after molting. It may be a longshot but worth throwing out there: do you have any pets on frontline or any other kind of flea control that is applicated? Even though they died in/around molting, if it was a coincidence in timing and you do have that product in your house, I would advise you to move to an edible flea control rather than topical.

While I have not read any conclusive info, I had several slings/juvies die in 2010 or so before frontline's formula changed (roughly 5% of my collection, maybe 10%), but since we switched over to the pill formula I've had less than 2% death. That's a huge swing and the only thing I could attribute it to (other than perhaps some improvement in husbandry but I haven't changed a lot).
 

Steph1304

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Thank you everyone for your replies I really appreciate them!

Sharno, I usually use Frontline spot on treatment for the cats, although they havent been treated since before I got the spiders. I will speak to the vet about tablet form as that sounds ideal :) I also don't generally let the cats in the office as one has a habit of sitting with his bum on my keyboard and setting off all the macros when I'm trying to work XD.

Octanejunkie, humidity has something I've really tried to get right but has given me nightmares. I read a lot about sudden death in young versicolors before I got mine, so bought the hygrometers, but they had high readings even in the control tank which was empty and the soil was dry.

I read that it was better to keep versicolors dryer and just overwater the bowl to about 1/3 of the substrate then let it dry out before repeating so I've been doing that. I'd also do a quick mist once a week.

The cylindrical tank for the versicolor was a nightmare as the only way I could feel the substrate involved me putting my arm within an inch of the versicolor and destroying her web every time I took the lid off, so I bought the bigger tank with front opening doors. I made sure she had 2 small waterbowls in there 1 near her web and the other further down to keep the humidity higher and I refilled these every other day.

I am wondering, does anyone else use dechlorinator? I bought it at the same time as the tanks, but could it be that Ts don't like dechlorinated water?

I don't know enough yet about spider body language but I get the feeling mine aren't happy with the substrate. They spend most of their time either on the side of the tank or half on the side (pic below), and as this was the position my hamorii was in when they had their failed moult I get anxious when I see them like this.

DustyD, when I set up the cabinet I left a gap at the back base and drilled holes at the top in the hope that I'd get some decent airflow through, but the tanks I bought only had vents in the lids so the gap and holes in the cabinet weren't much use.

2 days ago put lots of holes on either side of the cylindrical tanks using a heated stainless steel straw (I took the T's out first), and yesterday I moved the whiteknee into the smaller tank (also pictured below). I had thought, like you said, that keeping the cabinet environment constant would be easier and it seems to be ok temperaturewise but humidity really is an issue. The bottom layer of substrate which developed mould was bonedry before I watered it and it was literally only an hour before the mould appeared.

I've moved the albo out of the mouldy tank and stuck the tank in the dining room on the windowsill to see if a bigger room with higher airflow reduces the mould growth or increases it. Either way I will throw the substrate away, rather than reuse it, but I can at least see if other room environments make a difference.

Again, thank you for your replies and I'm really sorry about how long my posts are! Hopefully when I have more experience and less questions they'll get a lot shorter! XD
 

Steph1304

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Thank you everyone for your replies I really appreciate them!

Sharno, I usually use Frontline spot on treatment for the cats, although they havent been treated since before I got the spiders. I will speak to the vet about tablet form as that sounds ideal :) I also don't generally let the cats in the office as one has a habit of sitting with his bum on my keyboard and setting off all the macros when I'm trying to work XD.

Octanejunkie, humidity has something I've really tried to get right but has given me nightmares. I read a lot about sudden death in young versicolors before I got mine, so bought the hygrometers, but they had high readings even in the control tank which was empty and the soil was dry.

I read that it was better to keep versicolors dryer and just overwater the bowl to about 1/3 of the substrate then let it dry out before repeating so I've been doing that. I'd also do a quick mist once a week.

The cylindrical tank for the versicolor was a nightmare as the only way I could feel the substrate involved me putting my arm within an inch of the versicolor and destroying her web every time I took the lid off, so I bought the bigger tank with front opening doors. I made sure she had 2 small waterbowls in there 1 near her web and the other further down to keep the humidity higher and I refilled these every other day.

I am wondering, does anyone else use dechlorinator? I bought it at the same time as the tanks, but could it be that Ts don't like dechlorinated water?

I don't know enough yet about spider body language but I get the feeling mine aren't happy with the substrate. They spend most of their time either on the side of the tank or half on the side (pic below), and as this was the position my hamorii was in when they had their failed moult I get anxious when I see them like this.

DustyD, when I set up the cabinet I left a gap at the back base and drilled holes at the top in the hope that I'd get some decent airflow through, but the tanks I bought only had vents in the lids so the gap and holes in the cabinet weren't much use.

2 days ago put lots of holes on either side of the cylindrical tanks using a heated stainless steel straw (I took the T's out first), and yesterday I moved the whiteknee into the smaller tank (also pictured below). I had thought, like you said, that keeping the cabinet environment constant would be easier and it seems to be ok temperaturewise but humidity really is an issue. The bottom layer of substrate which developed mould was bonedry before I watered it and it was literally only an hour before the mould appeared.

I've moved the albo out of the mouldy tank and stuck the tank in the dining room on the windowsill to see if a bigger room with higher airflow reduces the mould growth or increases it. Either way I will throw the substrate away, rather than reuse it, but I can at least see if other room environments make a difference.

Again, thank you for your replies and I'm really sorry about how long my posts are! Hopefully when I have more experience and less questions they'll get a lot shorter! XD
Photos as promised

Albo body language I'm worried about

Position of white knee on side if tank - dislikes the substrate?
 

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octanejunkie

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Your last pic looks like it could use more substrate. Limit free climbing height with substrate depth allowing no more than 1.5-2x the diagonal leg span of the spider in free climbing height.

More substrate will also hold more moisture providing "natural" humidity, overflowing you water dish less and less often.

Lastly, yes avics can be kept drier than we one thought, just don't let them go arid/bone dry

Your concerns about spider position/pose seem much ado about nothing, spider often rest in funny positions. I'd not read too much into it. If your spider didn't like the substrate it would not be on it at all, but do always pack down substrate firmly to mimic terra firma.

Best!
 

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