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Waterfalls inside a Terrarium?

Ian Spackman

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3 Year Member
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19
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Ephraim, Utah
Hey guys, I just got a T. Blondi and am struggling to keep the humidity at optimal levels (approximately 80%). While searching around for something that could be of some help I noticed small waterfalls that can be added to enclosures. Imitation rock, built in pump, that sort of deal. Exo-Terra makes them in small, medium and large. There there isn't enough water for the Blondi to drown and I was wondering if any of you have utilized this trick to help humidity levels as well as add a bit of flare to the enclosure.

Thanks guys!
 

Poec54

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3 Year Member
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322
Location
South Florida
Where are you? If you're in the US, it's 99% certain that you have stirmi, not blondi, which is good, as the two look very much alike and blondi's much more delicate and almost impossible to breed (hence the scarcity and high prices).

I have stirmi at all sizes. They're popular in the US because they're the hardiest Theraphosa and w/c's are still being imported (unlike the other two in the genus). Don't get hung up on humidity percentages. Cage thermometers are notoriously inaccurate anyways. Most of my stirmi are w/c and I hand selected them from a reptile dealer, choosing the skinniest ones that needed the most care. All have done great.

To thrive, they need:
- Moist substrate, not wet or soggy. Don't let it dry out either though. Some people put gravel in the bottom, which is totally unnecessary. You don't want it that wet in there. Mine do fine in the same conditions I keep my Asian terrestrials in. In spite of what the TKG says, Theraphosa ARE NOT 'swamp dwellers. Unfortunately some people read this and take it literally.
- I use bagged top soil, the cheap stuff from Home Depot, without any fertilizer added, costs $1.50 for 40 lbs. I hate cocofiber.
- Good cross ventilation, which means holes in the upper sides. That keeps mold/mites to a minimum. Air holes in the lid ruin part of the microclimate/humidity effect. You don't want to have condensation. Misting blows hairs airborne, and you will soon see the folly in that.
- Full, clean water bowl at all times. I use 3oz soufflé cups, bought by the sleeve from restaurant supply stores. They get nasty, I throw them out. If you use a ceramic water bowl, you'll be scrubbing it regularly.
- Lots of food.
- Temps preferably 75 to 85.
- Use tongs/forceps for all cage maintenance. Their hairs will be all over the cage, and they can burn for hours. I also use disposable vinyl gloves, and if I'm doing a few age transfers, a plastic painters/grinders face shield. After you gets hairs on your face, you won't want that to happen again. Never get them in your eyes. If you get 'haired' using making tape or duct tape will remove most of them, but you have to do it before you start scratching.

Let me assure you, you do not want a waterfall in that cage, nor do you need one. I have 100 species of tarantulas, and hands down Theraphosa put the most vile things in their water bowls, truly disgusting. You'd never be able to keep a waterfall clean enough to be a source of drinking water. It would soon be a haven for bacteria.

With reasonable conditions, Theraphosa are hardy. There's some questionable advice out there, from people that have little experience with them. They tend to exaggerate how wet they need to be kept.
 

Ian Spackman

New Member
3 Year Member
Messages
19
Location
Ephraim, Utah
I realize it is listed as a Stermi which is great news! Thank you for the advice, I truly appreciate it! After posting this I thought about it for awhile and common sense began to come to me (which is rare it seems) and since T's rely so much on vibration, I'm sure having constantly running water along with a motor going would cause a severe amount of stress and confusion.

As far as enclosures go, it is in more or less a temporary enclosure for now, as I wanted to get something a bit more suitable for its size as well as for viewing. I'm very interested in the Exo-Terra medium low and have seen many hobbyists use it for their theraphosa species. A bit more on the pricy end, but they do look very nice. The top of the enclosure is mesh and you stated that air holes in the top ruin the microclimate, so would this be a poor choice to keep the Stermi in?
 

Denny Dee

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I am going to have to disagree with Poec54 here. If you acquired the T from a reputable dealer, you have a much better than a 99% chance that you have a Stermi vs. a Blondi. If so, I see no reason why you couldn't add the waterfall as long as the enclosure is large enough. His point on maintenance is well taken so you would need to be prepared to deal with that. Other than that, it would add much needed humidity to the tank and can really make an impact on the overall appearance of the enclosure if done right. If you are on the bubble, than I would pass.
 

Ian Spackman

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3 Year Member
Messages
19
Location
Ephraim, Utah
Thank you, I appreciate your insight. I was nervous about the Blondi, it was more of an impulse buy unfortunately so I hadn't thought it completely through. I've had a Rose Hair for a few years now and decided I would like another so I opted for the Goliath. When I noticed how much more of a hassle the Blondi's are to care for I was kicking myself for not thinking it all the way through. Very pleased that it is a Stermi!
 

Denny Dee

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Well, the sturmi is also more of an advance species regarding care. They may not be quite as sensitive to humidity as the blondi, they are not far behind. Humidity around 70-80%. Without automatic misters, you will need to keep a close eye on the humidity balance (as Poek54 disussed above) which means lots of checking the humidity regularly and manually misting) . So, if you are up for the challenge, you are going to enjoy this species. There is something spectacular when a Therephosa sp. is in full view. One of my top genus/species in the hobby today.
 

Ian Spackman

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19
Location
Ephraim, Utah
That's no problem with me, I usually spend a decent amount of time with them anyway. Would you recommend a digital hydrometer/thermometer for a more precise/consistent readout, or do you tend to use the standard gauges?
 

Denny Dee

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I use standard gauges. I agree that the gauges are not always the most accurate but they work fairly well.I also use a whole room humidifier in addition to the individual tank misters to help. I have three digital hydrometers located thoughout the room. I usually mist on a schedule and through trial and error you do get the hang of it. Everyone seems to handle this a bit different and there is no right or wrong way as well as the spider agrees it is working :T:
 

Poec54

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322
Location
South Florida
That's no problem with me, I usually spend a decent amount of time with them anyway. Would you recommend a digital hydrometer/thermometer for a more precise/consistent readout, or do you tend to use the standard gauges?

I have 100 species of tarantula, and none have gauges in their cages. I have a couple of each for the room. Theraphosa are fine with moist substrate and cross ventilation. Just don't let them dry out. Don't obsess over a specific humidity percentage, no big collectors do. Condensation means too stuffy. Misting stirs up hairs so you don't want to be doing that. I sprinkle water randomly over the substrate. I don't like 'overflow the waterbowl' advice, as it keeps that one area moist & promotes mites and mold.

Theraphosa should have a lid with limited ventilation, to hold humidity in. Mesh is too open. Terrestrial tarantulas can easily chew holes in screen (fiberglass or aluminum), and Theraphosa can shed it in no time if they want.

How big is your stirmi now? Have you checked it's vent? They're easy to sex. Males have a black triangle above the vent.
 

Denny Dee

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That is the great thing about this hobby. There is no wrong or right way as long as the end result is a healthy T. I am an old reptile guy and like to use the technology available. But, Poec54 is right, under the correct conditions, you don't need gauges or clayballs beneath the substrate. I prefer them for swamp dwellers but do not use them on all of my T's.
 

Poec54

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Messages
322
Location
South Florida
I've had a Rose Hair for a few years now and decided I would like another so I opted for the Goliath.

Those two species are at opposite ends of the spectrum. Roseas are from a dry, harsh climate and require dry substrate. Growth is slow and they periodically fast for months at a time.

With stirmi, things happen at a scale and a pace that is impressive. As rainforest dwellers they need more humidity and moisture (along with good ventilation) than a rosea could tolerate. They're always hungry and growth is fast. 2nd instar slings are over an inch, and at 3rd instar, they're two inches. I've seen 9" unsexed stirmi molt into 10" adult males.
 

Ian Spackman

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Location
Ephraim, Utah
Stirmi is about 5 inches or so and its a female. Definitely on opposite ends for sure, but I have been enjoying that because it gives me a little bit more to do. The Rosea is very content, I have to do little to nothing with her. (Which can be a blessing and a curse, I have those times when I say Eat dammit! Eat! But, she likes to watch her figure.

One concern I have is keeping the humidity up while I'm not around. There are times when I have to leave for 6 or 7 days at a time for work so I won't be there regulate the humidity. I had a conversation (briefly) with a couple friends and they were very against the idea of having to feed and/or mist or sprinkle water into the enclosure. Both of them (Fully grown men) are far too frightened by them. Which leads me right into the question of using automatic misters/foggers within the enclosure?

Denny Dee I noticed you mentioned them in one of your earlier posts, how have they been working for you and would you recommend using them?
 
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Ian Spackman

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Ephraim, Utah
Poec54, upon researching the Theraphosa I have heard there have been many hobbyists who have had molting issues with their Ts and have attributed it to poorly regulated humidity. I would hate for this to happen especially for such a beautiful, not to mention pricer, species.
 

Denny Dee

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Stirmi is about 5 inches or so and its a female. Definitely on opposite ends for sure, but I have been enjoying that because it gives me a little bit more to do. The Rosea is very content, I have to do little to nothing with her. (Which can be a blessing and a curse, I have those times when I say Eat dammit! Eat! But, she likes to watch her figure.

One concern I have is keeping the humidity up while I'm not around. There are times when I have to leave for 6 or 7 days at a time for work so I won't be there regulate the humidity. I had a conversation (briefly) with a couple friends and they were very against the idea of having to feed and/or mist or sprinkle water into the enclosure. Both of them (Fully grown men) are far too frightened by them. Which leads me right into the question of using automatic misters/foggers within the enclosure?

Denny Dee I noticed you mentioned them in one of your earlier posts, how have they been working for you and would you recommend using them?
I use the Reptifog product by Zoo Med. They are a bit pricey but they have worked great for me. I regulate them with timers. They also have adustable output so between that and the timers, you can find the right balance by species. I really only use them on my high humidity species (mostly the Asian T's and some tropical scorpions) due to cost and the fact that it is not as critical for other species. Generally, I get away with soaking the soil or misting those once per week. Again, you will get the hang of it and you can almost "sense" when you have too much or too little humidity in the enclosures. Strange but true.
 

Denny Dee

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Poec54, upon researching the Theraphosa I have heard there have been many hobbyists who have had molting issues with their Ts and have attributed it to poorly regulated humidity. I would hate for this to happen especially for such a beautiful, not to mention pricer, species.
This can happen. Usually an extreme situation. I try to keep my Pokies between 65-75% so they are a bit more tolerant than the swamp dwellers.
 

Poec54

Active Member
3 Year Member
Messages
322
Location
South Florida
Poec54, upon researching the Theraphosa I have heard there have been many hobbyists who have had molting issues with their Ts and have attributed it to poorly regulated humidity. I would hate for this to happen especially for such a beautiful, not to mention pricer, species.

I've got 20 juvenile/adult stirmi and 10 slings. I have stirmi molting all the time, and have never had one of them have an issue. I don't keep mine soggy or stuffy. Relax. The vast majority of the molting problems with Theraphosa are blondi and apophysis.
 
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tcrave

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Messages
260
I realize it is listed as a Stermi which is great news! Thank you for the advice, I truly appreciate it! After posting this I thought about it for awhile and common sense began to come to me (which is rare it seems) and since T's rely so much on vibration, I'm sure having constantly running water along with a motor going would cause a severe amount of stress and confusion.

As far as enclosures go, it is in more or less a temporary enclosure for now, as I wanted to get something a bit more suitable for its size as well as for viewing. I'm very interested in the Exo-Terra medium low and have seen many hobbyists use it for their theraphosa species. A bit more on the pricy end, but they do look very nice. The top of the enclosure is mesh and you stated that air holes in the top ruin the microclimate, so would this be a poor choice to keep the Stermi in?

I would highly not recommend the Exo Terra for any Theraphosa sp- reasons for what I think is I have a T. stirmi in one. the screen on top does not help keep humidity regulated. unless you add a piece of plexi glass to cover half to 60% of the top. I would recommend a large Clear tub with lid and add screen vents or lots of holes to provide adequate ventilation which I use for my T. Apophysis. added its less expensive.
 

Poec54

Active Member
3 Year Member
Messages
322
Location
South Florida
I would highly not recommend the Exo Terra for any Theraphosa sp- reasons for what I think is I have a T. stirmi in one. the screen on top does not help keep humidity regulated. unless you add a piece of plexi glass to cover half to 60% of the top. I would recommend a large Clear tub with lid and add screen vents or lots of holes to provide adequate ventilation which I use for my T. Apophysis. added its less expensive.

+1. Exo Terra's are expensive and heavy; Theraphosa can easily tear holes right thru the screen. And like you said, screen tops aren't good for moisture dependent species, like Theraphosa and Hysterocrates. If you use an aquarium, you'll need a stirmi-proof top; I don't know if there's any you can buy that are, and how much they'd cost. Aquariums have great visibility, but you can't get cross ventilation from the sides, and lids are always an issue.

I use clear plastic storage boxes with latches to lock the lid on (Sterlite) for my big stirmi. I put airholes in the upper sides and lid. Costs only a fraction of what an Exo Terra or aquarium does.
 
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