Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New media
New articles
New media comments
New article comments
New profile posts
Latest activity
Articles
New articles
New comments
Search articles
Media
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Current visitors
New profile posts
Search profile posts
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Navigation
Install the app
Install
More options
Dark Theme
Contact us
Close Menu
Are you a Tarantula hobbyist? If so, we invite you to join our community! Once you join you'll be able to post messages, upload pictures of your pets and enclosures and chat with other Tarantula enthusiasts.
Sign up today!
Forums
Tarantula Forum Topics
General Tarantula Discussion
Hard to swallow pills for Newbies on the site
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Whitelightning777" data-source="post: 140765" data-attributes="member: 26980"><p>This is an interesting and lenghy set of observations, most of which I agree with.</p><p></p><p>The defensiveness and handling characteristics of a given tarantula obviously hinges on it's strategy.</p><p></p><p>Tarantulas that rely on urticating hairs are brightly colored. They will tend to move slowly so as to fully display the warning colors clearly and avoid triggering a predatory response by moving quickly.</p><p></p><p>The balance of hair reliance versus fight/flight behavior varies by genus and species and sometimes even between individuals of the same species.</p><p></p><p>Obviously with tarantulas that lack urticating hairs, fewer options exist. The only ones are fight or flight or a combination of both. Therefore handling these is really a bad idea. Minimal and necessary handling can be done with NWs of a docile temperament.</p><p></p><p>Generally speaking, a paintbrush, catch cup (with a properly fitted lid) & a paintbrush are your friends with any of them.</p><p></p><p>I have an unusually cold condo due to a roommate's medical issues, namely 67 to 68 degrees. After much testing prior to adding and invert, I've found that heat lamps are safe IF, they are 8" or further from the top most region or side where the tarantula can physically go, IF the bulbs are 25 watts or less, IF an Infrared thermometer is used to check for dangerous hot spots prior to introduction & if a voltage controller is used to control everything.</p><p></p><p>Should the 25 watts prove insufficient, it's best to add a second bulb, nota more powerful one or put it closer to the top of the cage.</p><p></p><p>A gentle warm area is safe. A hot spot is not.</p><p></p><p>Heat pads can also be used IF they are outside the cage, IF they are not below the tarantula, only higher or side to side & IF the substrate does not rise above the lowest areas of the heat pad.</p><p></p><p>This creates a hot side/cold side scenario whereby the behavior can be observed. Generally target temps should be in the low 80s. There's really no need to go any higher.</p><p></p><p>I should note that my newest T, a B hamorii, has her cage right under my wireless router, which creates a temp of 75 or 76 degrees, which is also good enough.</p><p></p><p>Truthfully, all this complexity can be avoided if you can simply heat your home to 75 degrees. The typical home is 70 to 72 degrees. Only if this isn't possible should you heat the cage. (Or if the spider is obviously cold)</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Whitelightning777, post: 140765, member: 26980"] This is an interesting and lenghy set of observations, most of which I agree with. The defensiveness and handling characteristics of a given tarantula obviously hinges on it's strategy. Tarantulas that rely on urticating hairs are brightly colored. They will tend to move slowly so as to fully display the warning colors clearly and avoid triggering a predatory response by moving quickly. The balance of hair reliance versus fight/flight behavior varies by genus and species and sometimes even between individuals of the same species. Obviously with tarantulas that lack urticating hairs, fewer options exist. The only ones are fight or flight or a combination of both. Therefore handling these is really a bad idea. Minimal and necessary handling can be done with NWs of a docile temperament. Generally speaking, a paintbrush, catch cup (with a properly fitted lid) & a paintbrush are your friends with any of them. I have an unusually cold condo due to a roommate's medical issues, namely 67 to 68 degrees. After much testing prior to adding and invert, I've found that heat lamps are safe IF, they are 8" or further from the top most region or side where the tarantula can physically go, IF the bulbs are 25 watts or less, IF an Infrared thermometer is used to check for dangerous hot spots prior to introduction & if a voltage controller is used to control everything. Should the 25 watts prove insufficient, it's best to add a second bulb, nota more powerful one or put it closer to the top of the cage. A gentle warm area is safe. A hot spot is not. Heat pads can also be used IF they are outside the cage, IF they are not below the tarantula, only higher or side to side & IF the substrate does not rise above the lowest areas of the heat pad. This creates a hot side/cold side scenario whereby the behavior can be observed. Generally target temps should be in the low 80s. There's really no need to go any higher. I should note that my newest T, a B hamorii, has her cage right under my wireless router, which creates a temp of 75 or 76 degrees, which is also good enough. Truthfully, all this complexity can be avoided if you can simply heat your home to 75 degrees. The typical home is 70 to 72 degrees. Only if this isn't possible should you heat the cage. (Or if the spider is obviously cold) [/QUOTE]
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Tarantula Forum Topics
General Tarantula Discussion
Hard to swallow pills for Newbies on the site
Top